Free Pattern: Baby D – a just-hatched duckling

Smaller than the Ultra Mini Ugly, tinier than Lil Other Brother, Baby D is the cutest just-hatched duckling you’ll ever want to give away. The latest duck I’ve been making for The Little Yellow Duck Project, Baby D is a really small version of Darryl – a duck and with only 11 rounds for the body and head and another 2 for the beak, he works up in well under an hour, like a half hour or less. Like some of the other mini ducks, Baby D is a great size to be used as a bag charm, backpack clip, or key chain.

Materials:

Just a little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
6mm black safety eyes
E crochet hook (3.5 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

Round 1: Ch 7, Starting with second chain from hook, 5SC, 4 SC in same stitch, now crochet back up the other side, 5SC, inc (last increase is in the first chain) (16)

Round 2: 14SC, inc, SC (17)

Round 3: inc, 14SC, inc, SC (19)

Round 4: inc, 16SC, inc, SC (21)

Round 5: inc, 8SC, 3SCtog, 8SC, 3SCtog (you’ll include 2 stitches from the next round in your last 3SCtog) (20)

Round 6: Flatten in half, 6SS through both sides starting by slip stitching through the next stitch and the stitch before the SC3tog you just made, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be 5 stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

Round 7: (SC, inc) 3x (last inc in SS) (9)

Round 8: (2SC, inc) around (12)

Rounds 9-10: SC around (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 1 row down from the top, 4SC apart.

Round 11: (dec) 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 11 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

Round 1: CH 3, (SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (6)

Round 2: (2SC, inc) 2x (8)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head with running stitch.

You’re done!

Free Pattern: Darryl – a duck

Free Crochet Pattern: Darryl – a duck

Final tweaks made and Darryl is finally ready to be posted! Darryl is the second duck from Duck Evolution and works up in an hour or less. I’m making a few more this morning getting ready to release them at the Rubber Duck Derby in Tarrytown, NY today as part of The Little Yellow Duck Project. Seems like the perfect event to be releasing crocheted ducks into the wild.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
9mm black safety eyes
G crochet hook (4.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

After round 1

Round 1: Ch 12, Starting with second chain from hook, 10SC, inc, now crochet back up the other side, inc, 9SC, inc (25)

Round 2: 11SC, inc, inc, 11SC, inc (28)

Round 3: 26SC, inc, SC (29)

Round 4: inc, 26SC, inc, SC (31)

Round 5: inc, 28SC, inc, SC (33)

Round 6: inc, 30SC, inc, SC (35)

Round 7: inc, 32SC, inc, SC (37)

Round 8: inc, 16SC, 3SCtog, 16SC, 3SCtog (you’ll include 1 stitch from next round in your last 3SCtog) (35)

Round 9: Flatten in half, SS13 through both sides starting by slip stitching through the next stitch and the stitch before the SC3tog you just made, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be 7 stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

After round 9

Slip Stitch through both sides

 

Round 10:  inc, inc, SC, inc, inc, SC, inc (12)

After completing Round 10

Round 11: (SC, inc) around (18)

Rounds 12-15: SC around (18)

After round 15

Round 16: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 3 rows down from the top, 6SC apart.

Round 17: (dec) 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 17 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

After beak round 3

Round 1: CH 4, (2SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (8)

Round 2: (3SC, inc) 2x (10)

Round 3: (4SC, inc) inc (12)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head.

You’re done!

 

P.S. Keep an eye out for more sizes of Darryl still being developed.

 

Free Pattern: Lil Other Brother – a tiny duck

While in the middle of little yellow duck mass production yesterday, I couldn’t resist temptation and created a half size of Other Brother Darryl. The pattern worked out just as imagined and Lil Other Brother was born. This one works up in a half hour or less so you can make even more for The Little Yellow Duck Project. Because its smaller, it’s also a great size for a bag clip or keychain.

Other Brother Darryl with 2 Lil Other Brothers

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
9mm black safety eyes
G crochet hook (4.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

After Round 1

Round 1: Ch 7, Starting with second chain from hook, 5SC, 3SC in last chain, now crochet back up the other side 4SC, 2SC in last chain (14)

Round 2: 6SC, inc, 7SC (15)

Round 3: 7SC, inc, 7SC (16)

Round 4: 8SC, inc, 7SC (17)

Round 5: 8SC, inc, 8SC (18)

Round 6: SC3tog, 5SC, SC3tog, flatten in half, SS4 through both sides starting by slip stitching through the next stitch and the stitch before the SC3tog you just made, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be 5 stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

After completing Round 6

Slip Stitch through both sides

Round 7: (SC, inc) 3x (The last inc will be in the SS connecting the 2 sides) (9)

Round 8: inc around (18)

After Round 8

Rounds 9-11: SC around (18)

After Round 11

Round 12: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 3 rows down from the top, 6SC apart.

Round 13: dec 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 19 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

After Round 2

Round 1: CH 3, (SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (6)

Round 2: (2SC, inc) 2x (8)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head onto bottom row of eyes.

You’re done… now go make some more!

 

 

Finished Lil Other Brother

5 Lil Other Brothers and 2 Other Brother Darryls

Free Pattern: Other Brother Darryl – a duck

Free Crochet Pattern for Other Brother Darryl – a duck

To celebrate Little Yellow Duck Day (which was officially yesterday), I am finally posting the patterns for Larry, Darryl, and Other Brother Darryl. They all work up in an hour or less and are great for The Little Yellow Duck Project. Hopefully you’ll make a bunch and spread them all over the world.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
12mm black safety eyes
G crochet hook (4.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

After Round 1

Round 1: Ch 11, Starting with second chain from hook, 9SC, 3SC in last chain, now crochet back up the other side 8SC, 2SC in last chain (22)

Round 2: 10SC, inc, 11SC (23)

Round 3: 11SC, inc, 11SC (24)

Round 4: 12SC, inc, 11SC (25)

Round 5: 12SC, inc, 12SC (26)

Round 6: 13SC, inc, 12SC (27)

Round 7: 13SC, inc, 13SC (28)

Round 8: 15SC, inc, 12SC (29)

Round 9: 15SC, inc, 13SC (30)

Round 10: SC3tog, 12SC, SC3tog, SS9 through both sides, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be a few stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

After completing Round 10

Slip Stitch through both sides

Round 11: (SC, inc) 4x (The last inc will be in the SS connecting the 2 sides) (12)

After Round 11

Round 12: inc around (24)

Rounds 13-16: SC around (24)

After Round 16

Round 17: (2SC, dec) 6x (18)

Round 18: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 4 rows down from the top, 8SC apart.

Round 19: dec 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 19 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

After Beak Round 2

Round 1: CH 4, (2SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (8)

Round 2: (3SC, inc) 2x (10)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head on row below eyes.

You’re done!

 

Free Pattern: Ugly – a cute little duck

Lil Ugly (left), Ugly (center) Ultra Mini Ugly (right)

Ugly – a cute little duck was created last year for The Little Yellow Duck Project. It works up in a little over an hour. I’ve made the Ugly pattern in 3 sizes. This is the largest size, but the example pictures used in the pattern are from the Lil Ugly.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. If you use a thinner weight yarn use a C hook or smaller. If you use a bulky or super bulky weight yarn, use a J hook. The Ugly is cute in all weights of yarn.
9mm black safety eyes (12mm if using bulky or super bulky weight yarn, make French knots instead if using a very thin yarn)
C or E crochet hook (2.5mm or 3.5mm). The smaller hook will make a smaller Ugly.
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
DC: Double Crochet
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
FLO: Front Loops Only
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 start in main color):

Round 1: 6SC in magic circle (6)

Round 2: (SC, 4SC in next SC, SC) 2x (12)

Round 3: (inc, SC) 6x (18)

Round 4: (inc, 2SC) 6x (24)

Round 5: (inc, 3SC) 6x (30)

Round 6: (2sc, inc, 2SC) 6x (36)

Rounds 7-9: SC around (36)

Round 10: (4sc, dec) 6x (30)

Round 11: SC around (30)

Round 12: (dec, 3SC) 6x (24)

Round 13: SC around (24)

Round 14: (SC, 3SCtog, 3SC, 3SCtog, 2SC) 2x (16)

Round 15: (SC, dec, SC) 4x (12)

Round 16: SC around (12)

Flatten the head. Your working yarn will be on the left towards the front. Add plastic safety eyes between rows 10 and 10 11 sc apart.

Stuff

Round 17: (SC, inc) 6x (18)

Round 18: (2SC, inc) 6x (24)

Rounds 19-20: SC around (24)

Round 20: (2SC, dec) 6x (18)

Round 21: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Round 22 (and part of 23): 2SC, dec, (the dec should be in the front center, if it is not, SC until you get to the front center), change to contrasting color (do not cut the main color yet), FLO for the rest of the round: in the first stitch (SS, HDC, 2DC) in the next stitch (DC, HDC), 6 SC, in the next stitch (HDC, DC), next stitch (2DC, HDC, SS)

Final Round (starts a few stitches into round 19): Change back to main color (you can cut the contrasting color), SC through both loops, 5 dec in unworked back loop from last round, FO leaving a long tail. (6)

Stuff

Pull the loose end in contrasting color where the feet ended into the body and tie a knot with the other end of the yarn from the feet. Pull it into the body.

Weave tail from main color through final round and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into body.

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

Round 1: CH 1, 6 FSC, turn and SC up other side (12)
Rounds 2-3: SC around (12)
FO leaving long tail
Sew beak onto head. I like to use 3 or 4 longer stitches between the eyes when sewing on the beak.

Wings (make 2 in main color):

You will be working on both sides of the chain.
CH 5, SC in the second chain from hook, 2SC, 3SCinc, continue to work up the other side of the chain working over your end, 3SC, inc (11)
SS into the first stich and FO
Pull both ends tight

Sew wings onto body.

You’re done!

Free Pattern: Ultra Mini Ugly – a teeny tiny lil duck

 

The Ultra Mini Ugly – a teeny tiny lil duck is the smallest size Ugly. The little brother of A Lil Ugly, the Ultra Mini Ugly was also created for The Little Yellow Duck Project and works up in under an hour. I’m posting the Ugly patterns in three sizes as three separate patterns so that they are easier to read. A Lil Ugly (the next size up), was posted a few days ago. The full size Ugly pattern should be up in the next few days.

A Lil Ugly (left) and an Ultra Mini Ugly (right) for size comparison

Exactly which worsted weight yarn you use makes a big difference in the final size. In the below picture of three different Ultra Mini Uglies, the one on the left is make in Red Heart Super Saver and came out the biggest. The other two use Red Heart Super Saver for the beak and feet only. The two grey ducks were made from ends of balls of yarn I had lying around and I’m not sure what yarn they were made from, but they were worsted weight yarns.

Three Ultra Mini Uglies in Different Types of Worsted Weight Yarn

Even though they were made out of worsted weight yarn, some of the Ultra Mini Uglies I made were too small to be released in the wild with just a Little Yellow Duck tag attached so I added a jump ring and lobster claw which can be found in the jewelry findings section of a craft store. The metal of the ring was easy to bend open and closed with my bare hands and was not difficult to put on the duck. The clasps are fun because you can clip the duck onto gates or wire fences and you do not need to worry about the duck blowing away in the wind. I did add a warning to the LYD tags to remove the metal ring and clasp before giving to a child.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.
6mm or 9mm black safety eyes
E crochet hook (3.5mm)
Tapestry Needle
Optional – large lobster claw and jump ring to use the Ugly as a key chain or bag clip

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
DC: Double Crochet
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
FLO: Front Loops Only
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 start in main color):

Round 1: 6SC in magic circle (6)

Round 2: (SC, 4SC in next SC, SC) 2x (12)

Round 3: (inc, SC) 6x (18)

Round 4: (inc, 2SC) 6x (24)

Rounds 5-7: SC around (24)

Round 8: (SC, SC3tog, 3SC, SC3tog, 2SC) 2x (16)

Round 9: (SC, SC3tog) 4x (8)

Flatten the head. Your working yarn will be on the left towards the front. Add plastic safety eyes between rows 7 and 8 1 sc apart.

Stuff

Round 10: SC around (8)

Round 11: inc around (16)

Rounds 12: SC around (16)

Round 13: dec around (8)

Round 14: dec (the dec should be in the front center, if it is not, SC until you get to the front center), change to contrasting color, FLO for the rest of the round: in the first stitch (SS, HDC) in the next stitch (DC, HDC), 2 SC, in the next stitch (DC, HDC)

Stuff

Round 15: Change back to main color, SC through both loops, 3 dec in unworked back loop from last round, FO leaving a long tail. (4)

Pull the loose end in contrasting color where the feet ended into the body and tie a knot with the other end of the yarn from the feet. Pull it into the body.

Weave tail from main color through final round and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into body.

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

Round 1: CH 1, 4 FSC, turn and SC up other side (8)
Round 2: HDC around (8)
FO leaving long tail
Sew beak onto head. I like to use 3 or 4 longer stitches between the eyes when sewing on the beak.

Wings (make 2 in main color):

You will be working on both sides of the chain.
CH 3, Turn, SC in second chain from hook, inc, continue to work up the other side of the chain working over your end, inc, inc (7)
SS into the first stich and FO
Pull both ends tight

Sew wings onto body.

You’re done!

Free Pattern: A Lil Ugly – a pocket size duck

A Lil Ugly – a pocket size duck is the perfect size for The Little Yellow Duck Project. It works up in about an hour but is still large enough for The Little Yellow Duck tag to be tied around it’s neck without falling off. I’ve made the Ugly pattern in 3 sizes. This is the middle size.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. If you use a thinner weight yarn use a C hook or smaller. If you use a bulky or super bulky weight yarn, use a larger hook.
9mm black safety eyes
C or E crochet hook (2.5mm or 3.5mm). The smaller hook will make a smaller Ugly.
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
DC: Double Crochet
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
FLO: Front Loops Only
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 start in main color):

Round 1: 6SC in magic circle (6)

Round 2: (SC, 4SC in next SC, SC) 2x (12)

Round 3: (inc, SC) 6x (18)

Round 4: (inc, 2SC) 6x (24)

Round 5: (inc, 3SC) 6x (30)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30)

Round 9: (dec, 3SC) 6x (24)

Round 10: SC around (24)

Round 11: (SC, 3SCtog, 3SC, 3SCtog, 2SC) 2x (16)

Round 12: (SC, dec, SC) 4x (12)

Round 13: SC around (12)

Flatten the head. Your working yarn will be on the left towards the front. Add plastic safety eyes between rows 9 and 10 1 sc apart.

Stuff

Round 14: (SC, inc) 6x (18)

Rounds 15-16: SC around (18)

Round 17: (SC, Dec) 6x (12)

Round 18 (and part of 19): SC, dec, (the dec should be in the front center, if it is not, SC until you get to the front center), change to contrasting color, FLO for the rest of the round: in the first stitch (SS, HDC, 2DC) in the next stitch (DC, HDC), 6 SC, in the next stitch (HDC, DC), next stitch (2DC, HDC, SS)

Final Round (starts a few stitches into round 19): Change back to main color, SC through both loops, 5 dec in unworked back loop from last round, FO leaving a long tail. (6)

Stuff

Pull the loose end in contrasting color where the feet ended into the body and tie a knot with the other end of the yarn from the feet. Pull it into the body.

Weave tail from main color through final round and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into body.

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

Round 1: CH 1, 5 FSC, turn and SC up other side (10)
Rounds 2-3: SC around (10)
FO leaving long tail
Sew beak onto head. I like to use 3 or 4 longer stitches between the eyes when sewing on the beak.

 

Wings (make 2 in main color):

You will be working on both sides of the chain.
CH 4, Turn, inc, 3SCinc, inc, continue to work up the other side of the chain working over your end, inc, 3SCinc, inc (14)
SS into the first stich and FO
Pull both ends tight

Sew wings onto body.

You’re done!

 

 

Free Pattern: Striped Cowl for Boys and Men

Father and Son Matching Hat and Cowl Sets

Three years ago I made the Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!) hat for my husband. It’s an amazing pattern by Nancy Smith and worked up in 2 hours. After multiple requests from my son, a few days later I made him one too. They loved wearing their matching hats and looked super cute in them. My son wore this hat EVERY DAY in the winter. Then the inevitable happened. One day he wore it to school and it did not come home. Luckily, it was at the end of winter. Snow made a comeback the day before Thanksgiving and 20 degree weather followed quickly behind so I finally made him a new hat (he’s only been asking for 8 months). But what would he wear around his neck?

Since I made the hats three years ago I’ve been trying to work up a matching scarf, but nothing ever looked quite right. Post stitches just look so much better in the round than they do worked from both sides. Then it occurred to me. Just work it up as a cowl in the round and add ribbing like Snow No?. Like Snow No? It can be worn with the ribbing pulled up over your nose if it’s really cold or with the ribbing folded in and the cowl pushed under your chin if it’s not. The Striped Cowl came out great and keeps my son toasty. Of course my husband wanted one too so they could match.

Child Size and Adult Size Striped Cowls

Here’s the pattern for the Striped Cowl for Boys and Men:

Materials:

170 yards (200 for adult size) of worsted weight yarn in main color (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice – yardage listed is very approximate)
30 yards of worsted weight yarn in contrasting color (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice – yardage listed is very approximate)
K crochet hook (6.5 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

CH: Chain
BLO: Back Loops Only
FO: Finish Off
FDC: Foundation Double Crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
SC: Single Crochet
SS: Slip Stitch

Pattern:

Body of Cowl (with K hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round and the main stitch pattern used is from Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!). You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Pattern is written in child size with adult size in ( ). You’ll have the same number of stitches for each round of the body of the cowl so to make it longer or smaller, just start with more or less stitches. Make sure it is an even number of stitches.

Round 1: In Main Color – Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 59 FDC for child size (71 FDC for adult size), then for final FDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch.(60, 72)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), SC in same stitch, FPDC in next stitch, (SC in next stitch, FPDC in next stitch) around, SS to connect to top of first stitch. (60, 72)

For Child Size:
Round 3-10: Repeat Round 2, you will make the SC in the SC from the row below and FPDC in the FPDC from the row below

Round 11-12: Change to Contrasting Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice. (60)

Round 13-14: Change back to Main Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice, do not finish off, continue onto Edging of Cowl. (60)

For Adult Size:
Round 3-16: Repeat Round 2, you will make the SC in the SC from the row below and FPDC in the FPDC from the row below

Round 17-18: Change to Contrasting Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice. (72)

Round 19-20: Change back to Main Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice, do not finish off, continue onto Edging of Cowl. (72)

Edging of Cowl (with J hook):

You will be work the edging vertical to the body of the cowl. You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
You will always have the same number of stitches in each row. Turning Ch1 and SS that connect to edge of cowl do not count as stitches.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You may want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row like the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your J hook, Ch 5 for Children’s size (Ch 6 for Adult size), turn. (5, 6)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn.(5, 6)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn.(5, 6)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn.(5, 6)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn.(5, 6)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn.(5, 6)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO. (5, 6)

Now you’ll work the other side of the ribbing. With the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, then follow the same directions above for the Edging of Cowl.

Weave in ends.

If you haven’t made one yet, you’ll probably want to make the matching Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!) Hat by Nancy Smith which I can’t say enough about.

Little Yellow Ducks Invade NY

For the past 2 weeks I’ve been more than a little obsessed with The Little Yellow Duck Project. I’ve been crocheting little ducks like crazy and my son, husband, and I have now placed 34 ducks in NYC, Long Island, and around Westchester County.

It’s ridiculously fun. Sneaking around. Trying to leave a duck in a super crowded place without being noticed. Eagerly checking The Little Yellow Duck Project’s world map to see if any new ducks have been reported. The rush when we’ve had another duck on the map. The amazement that our ducks were the first ones reported in NY state. The shouts of joy when we realized that the 500th duck reported was one we had left!

Ducks about to hit the streets of NY

My husband’s continued attempts have resulted in 0 of 14 ducks on the map. However, after leaving ducks on his coworker’s desks and discussing the project with them, he learned that one of them is about to donate a kidney in a few days. He didn’t feel it was right to push her to register it. She was doing more than her share for the cause.

So what is the cause? The Little Yellow Duck Project has two goals: to brighten up someone’s day by finding a little duck and to increase awareness and registration for organ, blood, and bone marrow donation. How is that personal? My friend Tania who I mentioned in my last post died earlier this year at the age of 41 while waiting for a heart transplant.

Little Yellow Duck with Tag

So what’s the deal with these ducks? There are a few official free patterns, but you can make any duck you like however you want to make it and stick a tag on it letting people know to take it home and that it’s part of The Little Yellow Duck Project with the website listed. I’ve used both the Just Ducky Lovey pattern and Filbert. Both are free patterns and work up in about an hour. I’ve found that Just Ducky Lovey is better for sticking in places, like slots of a bench if it’s windy. Filbert stands up and works great for flat places like picnic tables or the top of washing machines. The tags are available in multiple languages on the website and even include a place for you to name each duck.

While I’ve crocheted my ducks, there are also patterns for knitted and sewn ducks. People have also made ducks out of pom poms and have made bags with appliqued ducks on them.

This is an international initiative so no matter where you are, no matter what your medium, give it a shot. You just might make it on the map (and help to save a life in the process).

First Group of Ducks for The Little Yellow Duck Project

Filbert! as a Little Yellow Duck

Mallard variations of Just Ducky Lovey

 

 

 

Free Pattern: Rainbow Collection: Ombre Pillow Set

While searching for yarn for No More Snow! in the closet, I came across the pillow inserts I had intended to become the Rainbow Collection’s ombre pillow set over 2 years ago. I was on vacation so I got all “I’m going to make everything I’ve been meaning to make for like 3 years.” I didn’t get quite that far, but I did whip up these pillows pretty quickly.

The Ombre Pillow Set includes 14″ and 16″ pillows made in the round using all single crochet and the painted crochet technique from Somewhere Over the Rainbow. You basically single crochet in the round with three strands together throughout the pattern, swapping out one strand at a time to get the ombre effect, and do 3 sc in the corners.

So here’s the next pattern in my Rainbow Collection Series, the Ombre Pillow Set.

Materials:

7 skeins of Red Heart Super Saver Solids (worsted weight yarn in 364 yd skeins). 1 skein in each of the following colors: Hot Red (Red), Pumpkin (Orange), Bright Yellow (Yellow), Paddy Green (Green), Blue (Blue), Royal (Dark Blue), Amethyst (Purple). *See Notes below as you may find it easier to work from 2 skeins of each color.
16 inch square pillow insert (this is for the 14 inch pillow)
18 inch square pillow insert (this is for the 18 inch pillow)
Tapestry Needle
N/10mm Crochet Hook
2 removable stitch markers

Abbreviations (US terms used):

SC: Single Crochet

SC3TOG: Single Crochet 3 stitches together

Notes:

You will need a pillow insert 2 inches larger than the finished pillow size.

You will be crocheting in the round from corner to corner and will not turn. I do recommend marking the corners with stitch markers and moving them up along with your work.

Hold 3 strands of yarn together throughout the pattern. The painted crochet technique creates an ombre effect by changing the color of one of the three strands at a time. You will be dropping one strand and picking up a new color strand when indicated.

Before you start, make 1 ball of each color around 90 yards long. When you need two strands of a color, pick up from both ends of the skein. When you need the third strand of the same color, add the ball you just made. *You may just want to buy 2 skeins of each color instead to avoid making the balls of each color. It’s easier.

The first pillow will be 3 colors and 40 rounds total:
3 strands of red for 11.5 rounds
2 strands of red, 1 strand of orange for 2 rounds
1 strand of red, 2 strands of orange for 2 rounds
3 strands of orange for 8 rounds
2 strands of orange, 1 strand of yellow for 2 rounds
1 strand of orange, 2 strands of yellow for 2 rounds
3 strands of yellow for 12.5 rounds

The second pillow will be 4 colors and 44 rounds total:
3 strands of green for 9.5 rounds
2 strands of green, 1 strand of blue for 2 rounds
1 strand of green, 2 strands of blue for 2 rounds
3 strands of blue for 6 rounds
2 strands of blue, 1 strand of dark blue for 2 rounds
1 strand of blue, 2 strands of dark blue for 2 rounds
3 strands of dark blue for 6 rounds
2 strands of dark blue, 1 strand of purple for 2 rounds
1 strand of dark blue, 2 strands of purple for 2 rounds
3 strands of purple for 10.5 rounds

Pattern:

First Pillow (3 colors, 16″ pillow insert):

Round 1:  Starting with 3 strands of Red Yarn, 6SC in a magic ring [6]

Round 2: (1 SC, 3 SC in the next SC – mark center SC with a stitch marker – move these up when you work each row, 1 SC) 2x (10)

Round 3: (2 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 2 SC) 2x (14)

Round 4: (3 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 3 SC) 2x (18)

Round 5: (4 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 4 SC) 2x (22)

Round 6: (5 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 5 SC) 2x (26)

Round 7: (6 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 6 SC) 2x (30)

Round 8: (7 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 7 SC) 2x (34)

Round 9: (8 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 8 SC) 2x (38)

Round 10: (9 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 9 SC) 2x (42)

Round 11: (10 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 10 SC) 2x (46)

Round 12: 11 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 22 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up one strand of orange, you will now be working with 2 strands red and 1 strand orange), 11 SC (50)

Round 13: (12 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 12 SC) 2x (54)

Round 14: 13 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 26 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up another strand of orange, you will now be working with 1 strand red and 2 strands orange), 13 SC (58)

Round 15: (14 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 14 SC) 2x (62)

Round 16: 15 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 30 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up another strand of orange, you will now be working with 3 strands orange), 15 SC (66)

Round 17: (16 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 16 SC) 2x (70)

Round 18: (17 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 17 SC) 2x (74)

Round 19: (18 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC) 2x (78)

Round 20: (19 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 19 SC) 2x (82)

Round 21: SC in each stitch around (82)

Round 22: (19 SC, SC3TOG, 19 SC) 2x (78)

Round 23: (18 SC, SC3TOG, 18 SC) 2x (74)

Round 24: 17 SC, SC3TOG, 34 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up a strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with two strands orange and one strand yellow), 17 SC (70)

Round 25: (16 SC, SC3TOG, 16 SC) 2x (66)

Round 26: 15 SC, SC3TOG, 30 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up another strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with one strand orange and two strands yellow), 15 SC (62)

Round 27: (14 SC, SC3TOG, 14 SC) 2x (58)

Round 28: 13 SC, SC3TOG, 26 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up another strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with three strands yellow), 13 SC (54)

Round 29: (12 SC, SC3TOG, 12 SC) 2x (48)

Round 30: (11 SC, SC3TOG, 11 SC) 2x (44)

Turn inside out and weave in the ends, turn right side out and continue.

Round 31: (10 SC, SC3TOG, 10 SC) 2x (40)

Round 32: (9 SC, SC3TOG, 9 SC) 2x (36)

Round 33: (8 SC, SC3TOG, 8 SC) 2x (32)

Round 34: (7 SC, SC3TOG, 7 SC) 2x (30)

Put the pillow insert in. You will be crocheting around the pillow insert for the rest of the pillow.

Round 35: (6 SC, SC3TOG, 6 SC) 2x (26)

Round 36: (5 SC, SC3TOG, 5 SC) 2x (22)

Round 37: (4 SC, SC3TOG, 4 SC) 2x (18)

Round 38: (3 SC, SC3TOG, 3 SC) 2x (14)

Round 39: (2 SC, SC3TOG, 2 SC) 2x (10)

Round 40: (1 SC, SC3TOG, 1 SC) 2x (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail, thread tail through the last six stitches and pull tight. Stitch a few times to close up the corner and weave in the ends.

Second Pillow (4 colors, 18″ pillow insert):

Round 1:  Starting with 3 strands of Green Yarn, 6SC in a magic ring [6]

Round 2: (1 SC, 3 SC in the next SC – mark center SC with a stitch marker – move these up when you work each row, 1 SC) 2x (10)

Round 3: (2 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 2 SC) 2x (14)

Round 4: (3 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 3 SC) 2x (18)

Round 5: (4 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 4 SC) 2x (22)

Round 6: (5 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 5 SC) 2x (26)

Round 7: (6 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 6 SC) 2x (30)

Round 8: (7 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 7 SC) 2x (34)

Round 9: (8 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 8 SC) 2x (38)

Round 10: 9 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC, 3SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up one strand of blue, you will now be working with 2 strands green and 1 strand blue), 9 SC (42)

Round 11: (10 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 10 SC) 2x (46)

Round 12: 11 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 22 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up one strand of blue, you will now be working with 2 strands blue and 1 strand green), 11 SC (50)

Round 13: (12 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 12 SC) 2x (54)

Round 14: 13 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 26 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up another strand of blue, you will now be working with 3 strands blue), 13 SC (58)

Round 15: (14 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 14 SC) 2x (62)

Round 16: (15 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 15 SC) 2x (66)

Round 17: (16 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 16 SC) 2x (70)

Round 18: (17 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 17 SC) 2x (74)

Round 19: (18 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC) 2x (78)

Round 20: 19 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 38 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of blue and pick up one strand of dark blue, you will now be working with 2 strands blue and 1 strand dark blue), 19 SC(82)

Round 21: (20 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 20 SC) 2x (86)

Round 22: 21 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 42 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of blue and pick up one strand of dark blue, you will now be working with 2 strands dark blue and 1 strand blue), 21 SC (90)

Round 23: SC in each stitch around (90)

Round 24: 21 SC, SC3TOG, 42 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of blue and pick up a strand of dark blue then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 3 strands dark blue), 21 SC(86)

Round 25: (20 SC, SC3TOG, 20 SC) 2x (82)

Round 26: (19 SC, SC3TOG, 19 SC) 2x (78)

Round 27: (18 SC, SC3TOG, 18 SC) 2x (74)

Round 28: (17 SC, SC3TOG, 17 SC) 2x (70)

Round 29: (16 SC, SC3TOG, 16 SC) 2x (66)

Round 30:  15 SC, SC3TOG, 30 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 2 strands dark blue and 1 strand purple), 15 SC (62)

Round 31: (14 SC, SC3TOG, 14 SC) 2x (58)

Round 32: 13 SC, SC3TOG, 26 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 2 strands purple and 1 strand dark blue), 13 SC(54)

Round 33: (12 SC, SC3TOG, 12 SC) 2x (48)

Round 34: 11 SC, SC3TOG, 22 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 3 strands purple), 11 SC (44)

Round 35: (10 SC, SC3TOG, 10 SC) 2x (40)

Round 36: (9 SC, SC3TOG, 9 SC) 2x (36)

Round 37: (8 SC, SC3TOG, 8 SC) 2x (32)

Turn inside out and weave in the ends, turn right side out. Put the pillow insert in. You will be crocheting around the pillow insert for the rest of the pillow.

Round 38: (7 SC, SC3TOG, 7 SC) 2x (30)

Round 39: (6 SC, SC3TOG, 6 SC) 2x (26)

Round 40: (5 SC, SC3TOG, 5 SC) 2x (22)

Round 41: (4 SC, SC3TOG, 4 SC) 2x (18)

Round 42: (3 SC, SC3TOG, 3 SC) 2x (14)

Round 43: (2 SC, SC3TOG, 2 SC) 2x (10)

Round 44: (1 SC, SC3TOG, 1 SC) 2x (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail, thread tail through the last six stitches and pull tight. Stitch a few times to close up the corner and weave in the ends.

I was very sad to hear of the passing of an old friend from high school earlier this week. Tania this pattern is dedicated to you. I hope you have finally found peace on the other side of the rainbow.

Tania was a kind and sad creative soul. Her documentary New York City Subculture 1996 about the NYC mid-90’s punk scene lives on on YouTube and her book of poems, Elusive, is available for Kindle.