Free Pattern: Striped Cowl for Boys and Men

Father and Son Matching Hat and Cowl Sets

Three years ago I made the Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!) hat for my husband. It’s an amazing pattern by Nancy Smith and worked up in 2 hours. After multiple requests from my son, a few days later I made him one too. They loved wearing their matching hats and looked super cute in them. My son wore this hat EVERY DAY in the winter. Then the inevitable happened. One day he wore it to school and it did not come home. Luckily, it was at the end of winter. Snow made a comeback the day before Thanksgiving and 20 degree weather followed quickly behind so I finally made him a new hat (he’s only been asking for 8 months). But what would he wear around his neck?

Since I made the hats three years ago I’ve been trying to work up a matching scarf, but nothing ever looked quite right. Post stitches just look so much better in the round than they do worked from both sides. Then it occurred to me. Just work it up as a cowl in the round and add ribbing like Snow No?. Like Snow No? It can be worn with the ribbing pulled up over your nose if it’s really cold or with the ribbing folded in and the cowl pushed under your chin if it’s not. The Striped Cowl came out great and keeps my son toasty. Of course my husband wanted one too so they could match.

Child Size and Adult Size Striped Cowls

Here’s the pattern for the Striped Cowl for Boys and Men:

Materials:

170 yards (200 for adult size) of worsted weight yarn in main color (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice – yardage listed is very approximate)
30 yards of worsted weight yarn in contrasting color (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice – yardage listed is very approximate)
K crochet hook (6.5 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

CH: Chain
BLO: Back Loops Only
FO: Finish Off
FDC: Foundation Double Crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
SC: Single Crochet
SS: Slip Stitch

Pattern:

Body of Cowl (with K hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round and the main stitch pattern used is from Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!). You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Pattern is written in child size with adult size in ( ). You’ll have the same number of stitches for each round of the body of the cowl so to make it longer or smaller, just start with more or less stitches. Make sure it is an even number of stitches.

Round 1: In Main Color – Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 59 FDC for child size (71 FDC for adult size), then for final FDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch.(60, 72)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), SC in same stitch, FPDC in next stitch, (SC in next stitch, FPDC in next stitch) around, SS to connect to top of first stitch. (60, 72)

For Child Size:
Round 3-10: Repeat Round 2, you will make the SC in the SC from the row below and FPDC in the FPDC from the row below

Round 11-12: Change to Contrasting Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice. (60)

Round 13-14: Change back to Main Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice, do not finish off, continue onto Edging of Cowl. (60)

For Adult Size:
Round 3-16: Repeat Round 2, you will make the SC in the SC from the row below and FPDC in the FPDC from the row below

Round 17-18: Change to Contrasting Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice. (72)

Round 19-20: Change back to Main Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice, do not finish off, continue onto Edging of Cowl. (72)

Edging of Cowl (with J hook):

You will be work the edging vertical to the body of the cowl. You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
You will always have the same number of stitches in each row. Turning Ch1 and SS that connect to edge of cowl do not count as stitches.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You may want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row like the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your J hook, Ch 5 for Children’s size (Ch 6 for Adult size), turn. (5, 6)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn.(5, 6)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn.(5, 6)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn.(5, 6)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn.(5, 6)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn.(5, 6)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO. (5, 6)

Now you’ll work the other side of the ribbing. With the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, then follow the same directions above for the Edging of Cowl.

Weave in ends.

If you haven’t made one yet, you’ll probably want to make the matching Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!) Hat by Nancy Smith which I can’t say enough about.

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Free Pattern: Snow No? a cowl

Before I begin, let me say Happy NatCroMo! That’s right, it’s National Crochet Month, so get that hook out and join the party. Now, onto the cowl…

Monday the snow did me wrong. After a winter of hating the snow and fighting against it, I finally embraced it. Over a foot was on the way. School and work were sure to be closed. I looked forward to it. And then… it didn’t show up.

In anticipation, I made a matching cowl to No More Snow! a hat. While the snow was a no show, single digits did make a comeback and this cowl did get play this week. Similar to Spareribs, but a little smaller with ribbed edging that lets it be pulled over your nose or mouth, Snow No? will keep you super toasty against the brutal winds and ridiculous temperatures.

Here’s the pattern for Snow No! a cowl:

Materials:

300 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.5 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
H crochet hook (5.0 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
SC: Single Crochet
SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Pattern:

Body of Cowl (with J hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 99 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (100)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3 one more time

Round 25: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Do not finish off. The body of the cowl is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of Cowl (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your H hook, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Now you’ll work the other side of the ribbing.

Row 1: Still using your H hook, with the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: Spareribs – A Cowl

While I’m a big fan of the infinity scarf worn doubled, I love the feel of this shorter, wider shape. It’s a fun, warm hug of yarn around your neck!

Spareribs is the perfect cowl to take on this nasty winter. It matches Worm on a Hook and No More Snow! a hat, Spareribs is inspired by several similar looking knit patterns: Jane Richmond’s Welted Cowl, Churchmouse Yarns and Teas’ Welted Cowl & Infinity Loop, and of course Wurm done as a cowl. If you’re neck is in need of a warm yarn hug, give it a shot.

Here’s the pattern for Spareribs – A Cowl:

Materials:

375 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.7 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

 

Abbreviations:

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain

FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Pattern:

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 105 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (106)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 5-28: Repeat Rounds 2-4 eight more times

Round 29-30: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 31: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 32: Turn, you are now working on the wrong side, SS around to tighten up the last row, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

FO and weave in the ends. Steam block to relax the yarn. This cowl done in Paton’s Classic Wool was CRAZY stiff before blocking. Paton’s Classic Wool also really softens up when you wet block it, so if steaming is still too stiff for you, wet block it.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: Not a Brioche Infinity Scarf

Not a Brioche Infinity Scarf

Wow, it’s been almost a year since I’ve posted. During that year I’ve been working a lot, still crocheting, and dabbling with the two stick thing (knitting).

I recently knit a Brioche Infinity Scarf and while I love the result, I felt like it took forever. To make it go faster, since  I was using an acrylic wool blend, I steamed the hell out of it to make it grow, which it did… but it also lost the squishiness that makes the Brioche Infinity Scarf so delicious.

I was thinking it was kind of like the ribbed strand of the Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf, but when I tried it out, it was not.

So after some more testing and swatching, I came up with the Not a Brioche Infinity Scarf pattern:

Materials:

725 yards of DK weight yarn (I used around 1.8 skeins of Jo-Ann Sensations Cuddle)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

SS: Slip stitch

CH: Chain

FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet

FPHDC: Front Post Half Double Crochet

Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round, but you will be turning at the end of each row.

You will be working in post stitches for most of this pattern, but unlike how post stitches are frequently used, you will not be connecting the post stitches. This will result in a much more flexible fabric than you see when you connect the post stitches.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 2, 179 FHDC,  then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, connect with SS.

Row 2: Turn, Ch 1, FPHDC across, connect with SS

Row 3-40: Repeat Row 2

Finish off and weave in ends.

Finished scarf is 54″ long and 6″ wide not blocked. I did not block my scarf because I did not want to lose the squishiness.

Variations:

Longer or shorter scarf: This foundation row is aprox. 60″ long and will shrink to 54″ in the final scarf. If you want a longer scarf, your foundation row should be 10% longer than your desired finished length.

Worsted Weight Not a Brioche Infinity Scarf

Worsted Weight Yarn: I have also made one in Patons Classic Wool which took around 2.5 skeins (525 yds), using a K hook and did 142 stitches for the foundation row. It was around a 49″ foundation row and I did 32 rows. The final scarf was very dense so I steamed and steamed it to open it up. It’s now around the same length and width as the one I made in Cuddle. It is a thicker scarf though and the DK weight yarn has more drape.

Kid’s Version: I made one for my son in Red Heart Super Saver. He’s been having issues tying his scarf recently and the infinity scarf is easier for him to put on without choking himself. For his scarf I used a K hook, did a foundation row of 140 stitches, 11 rows, and did not block it.

Kid’s Two Tone Scarf

Two Tone: I made my son’s scarf two tone, one side Royal Blue and one side Lighter Blue. I alternated colors on every other row. At the end of the rows I did the join with SS and Ch 1 with both colors before dropping one and starting the next. The seam isn’t spectacular, but it beats weaving in all those ends.

Two Tone Not a Brioche Infinity Scarf

 

Free Pattern: Sugared Ribs – An Infinity Scarf

Sugared Ribs – An Infinity Scarf

I finally gave Kristen Hein Strohm’s Fritillary Scarf a shot for Christmas presents. Reading through it made no sense, but when I finally sat down to make it, it worked out fine and made a gorgeous infinity scarf. I would highly recommend the pattern from Inside Crochet’s August 2011 issue available through Yudu. The pattern is for a flat scarf, but works very well in the round.

Sugared Ribs Front View

Sugared Ribs Side View

So while I was making these, I kept thinking how great it would work as just a ribbed cowl. New Year’s Eve I kept playing around with stitches and stitch patterns and while I wasn’t convinced just a ribbed cowl was the way to go, by New Year’s Day, my new infinity scarf Sugared Ribs was complete and I totally love how it came out. Sugared Ribs starts off with 4 shallow ribs (or faux ribs depending on your point of view), then ends with a few rows of seed stitch. I love ribbing and am always up to try a new crochet method. I really like how this ribbing came out. The rib rows take a while, but you’ll sprint through the final rows of seed stitch and the combo works great together.

So here’s my New Year’s baby, Sugared Ribs – An Infinity Scarf:

Materials:

280 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.3 skeins of Berroco’s Vintage)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

CH: Chain
CHSP: Chain Space
BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

 

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

 

2 – YO, pull up a loop

 

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf(if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

 

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

 

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

 

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
SC: Single Crochet

Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round, just keep going at the end of each row.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first HDC), 173 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, you do not need to ss to connect to top part of stitch, just continue on with the next row. (175)

Row 2: RSC in each stitch around (175)

Row 3: RHDC in each stitch around (175)

Row 4: HDC in BBL of each stitch around (175)

Rows 5-10: Repeat Rows 2-4 two more times

Rows 11-12: Repeat Rows 2 and 3

Row 13: SC in BBL of each stitch around (175)

Row 14: SC, CH 1 (skip 1 SC) (175)

Row 15: SC in CHSP, CH 1 (skip SC) (175)

Rows 16-22: Repeat Row 15

Weave in ends.

Variations:

Only want the ribs (aka Sugar Free Ribs)? Repeat rows 2-4 until it’s as wide as you want it. you may want to end with a row of SS or SC.

This length is long enough to double, but you can make it shorter or longer, just use an odd number of stitches.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Some more pictures of Sugared Ribs:

Free Pattern: Chinese Lantern Cowl

When you fold the cowl, it looks like a Chinese Lantern

During my exploration of big hooks and loose stitches, the Chinese Lantern Cowl was created. It uses a smaller hook for the edge rows and very long stitches made with a larger hook for the center rows.

Materials:

2 skeins Loops and Threads’ Charisma (215 yards bulky yarn)

6.5mm crochet hook (K hook)

10mm crochet hook (N hook)

Yarn needle

Abbreviations (US terms used):

Ch: Chain

SS: Slip Stitch

SC: Single Crochet

FSC: Foundation Single Crochet

TTR: Triple Treble Crochet (Yo 4x, insert hook in next stitch, Yo, pull up a loop, *Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook* 5x)

dSC: Dropped Single Crochet (Insert hook below 3 loops instead of 2 when you are making your Single Crochet. For this pattern, you will put your hook under the top of the TTR instead of into it.)

Chinese Lantern Cowl Pattern:

You will work in the round for the entire pattern, do not turn.

Row 1: With the 6.5mm/K hook, Ch 2, 100 FSC, join with the last stitch so that you join at the chain, then SS to join the top of the stitch. When you start the last stitch, insert the hook under the chain as usual, but also under the chain of the first stitch, then make your FSC stitch. If you have a problem joining the chain of the FSC, you can join them together when you weave in your ends. (100)

(The easier alternative for Row 1 if you are afraid of FSC: Ch 101, join with SS, Ch 1, SC 100, join with SS)

Row 2: Ch 1, 100 SC, join with SS (100)

Row 3-4: Repeat Row 2

Row 5: Switch to 10mm/N hook. Ch 6 (counts as first TTR), 99TTR, join with SS (100)

Row 6: Ch 1, 100 dSC, join with SS (100)

Row 7: Ch 1, 100 SC, join with SS (100)

Row 8: Ch 6 (counts as first TTR), 99TTR, join with SS (100)

Row 9: Switch to 6.5mm/K hook. Ch 1, 100 dSC, join with SS (100)

Row 10: Ch 1, 100 SC, join with SS (100)

Row 11-12: Repeat Row 10

Finish off and weave in ends.

Free Pattern: Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf

To celebrate both the end of NATCROMO (National Crochet Month) and Knit and Crochet Blog Week, I am posting my long worked on and much more difficult than I thought it would be Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf. Inspired by the knit Challah Infinity Scarf, this pattern was a lot of fun and very challenging to create. I think the results are stunning, so expect a few more variations in the future.

Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf Pattern:

You will be making two ribbed strands and one textured strand, then braiding them together, sewing together the ends and sewing together the strands in two additional places to keep the braid even.

Materials:

500 yards worsted weight yarn (I used 3 skeins of Stitch Nation’s Bamboo Ewe, 2 in Mermaid and 1 in Beach Glass). You can use one, two, or three colors, your choice.

J (6.0mm) Crochet Hook

Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations (US terms):

SS (Slip Stitch)

SC (Single Crochet)

HDC (Half Double Crochet)

DC (Double Crochet)

FSC (Foundation Single Crochet)

FHDC (Foundation Half Double Crochet)

FO (Finish Off)

FPdc (Front Post Double Crochet)

FPhdtc (Front Post Half Double Triple Crochet): YO 3x, insert hook through front post of stitch, (YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops) 2x, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

FFLO (Front Front Loops Only): when you look at the top of the HDC, instead of the usual 2 loops, you see 3. You will only be working in the the loop closest to you, the front front loop.

Ribbed Strands (make 2):

You have two options for the ribbed strands, either with or without the reversible post stitches to create segments in the scarf. While it was a fun and challenging stitch for me to come up with, I could take it or leave it in the final scarf, so I give you the choice. If you are a beginner, go with Option 2, it’s a lot easier.

Option 1 (with reversible post):

The reversible post is created using front post stitches on each row, hooking into the post stitch and continuing from the row below, then ending with a back-front post stitch, and a finishing row of slip stitches.

Special Stitch, Back-Front Post stitch (B-FPhdtc): Yo, insert hook through post of back post stitch, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO 3x, insert hook through post of front post stitch, (YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops) 2x, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

Row 1: Ch 2, 225 FHDC

Front Front Loops Only

Row 2: Ch 2, (40 HDC in FFLO, 2 FPdc, SC, 2 FPdc) 5x

Row 3: Turn, Ch 2, (2 FPhdtc, SC, 2 FPhdtc, 40 HDC in FFLO) 5x

Row 4: Turn, Ch 2, (40 HDC in FFLO, 2 FPhdtc, SC, 2 FPhdtc) 5x

Row 5: Repeat Row 3

Row 6: Repeat Row 4

Fow 7: Turn, Ch 2, (2 B-FPhdtc, SC, 2 B-FPhdtc, 40 HDC in FFLO) 5x

Row 8: Turn, Working in FFLO, SS across

FO leaving a long tail to later sew the ends of the scarf together.

Option 2 (no reversible post):

Row 1: Ch 2, 225 FHDC

Row 2: Turn, Ch 2, Working in FFLO, HDC across

Row 3 – 7: repeat Row 2

Row 8: Working in FFLO, Slip Stitch across

FO leaving a long tail to later sew the ends of the scarf together.

Textured Strand (make 1):

This uses kind of a Griddle stitch and Bead stitch variation. Since this strand is not as dense as the Ribbed Strands, I found using less stitches produced the correct length.

Row 1: Ch 2, 166 FSC

Row 2: Turn, Ch 1, (SC, DC, SC, TC) repeat across, its 52x

Row 3: repeat Row 2

Row 4: Turn, Ch 1, (SC, TC, SC, DC) repeat across.

Row 5: repeat Row 4

Row 6: repeat Row 2

Row 7: Turn, Ch 1, SC across (166 SC)

FO leaving a long tail to later sew the ends of the scarf together.

Assembly:

Braid the three strands

Lay all three strands flat.

Braid them together.

Sew the ends together to turn this into an infinity scarf.

At thirds, sew the scarf at two additional points to keep your braid even.

Done!

Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf Almost Done!

So I have not been ignoring my crocheting, but there has been a lot going on. Last week I ended my old job and this week I started a great new one. At the same time, I’ve been working on some new designs and in some cases, they’ve been taking a lot longer to work out than expected.

I just finished the crochet for the Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf and I am super excited to be in the home stretch of assembly. I am still hoping to have the pattern posted by the end of the month, probably this weekend.

I’ve been mulling the design of this scarf over in my head for a while now. I loved the Challah Infinity Scarf since I first came across the pattern on Ravelry, but alas, it is a knit pattern and I don’t do that. While I was tempted to purchase the knit pattern to see if I could just make a crocheted translation, the $7 price tag got me to get creative instead.

I was very inspired by the Challah Infinity Scarf and decided to make the Hooked Holla Infinity Scarf. Since it is a little knockoffy I chose to keep the pattern free, even after extensive reworking. It’s two ribbed strands with reversible post stitches between segments and one textured strand made of a griddle stitch variation. I worked the textured strand so many times I lost count. It was a long time before I was happy with the way the texture looked and worked with the ribbed strands. So after you make these three strands, you braid them together and sew the ends together to make it continuous. That’s the part I’m about to do (with fingers crossed).

After a lot of work and reworking, I hope this becomes the amazing scarf I know the Hooked Holla was meant to be.