Free Pattern: Rainbow Collection: Ombre Pillow Set

While searching for yarn for No More Snow! in the closet, I came across the pillow inserts I had intended to become the Rainbow Collection’s ombre pillow set over 2 years ago. I was on vacation so I got all “I’m going to make everything I’ve been meaning to make for like 3 years.” I didn’t get quite that far, but I did whip up these pillows pretty quickly.

The Ombre Pillow Set includes 14″ and 16″ pillows made in the round using all single crochet and the painted crochet technique from Somewhere Over the Rainbow. You basically single crochet in the round with three strands together throughout the pattern, swapping out one strand at a time to get the ombre effect, and do 3 sc in the corners.

So here’s the next pattern in my Rainbow Collection Series, the Ombre Pillow Set.

Materials:

7 skeins of Red Heart Super Saver Solids (worsted weight yarn in 364 yd skeins). 1 skein in each of the following colors: Hot Red (Red), Pumpkin (Orange), Bright Yellow (Yellow), Paddy Green (Green), Blue (Blue), Royal (Dark Blue), Amethyst (Purple). *See Notes below as you may find it easier to work from 2 skeins of each color.
16 inch square pillow insert (this is for the 14 inch pillow)
18 inch square pillow insert (this is for the 18 inch pillow)
Tapestry Needle
N/10mm Crochet Hook
2 removable stitch markers

Abbreviations (US terms used):

SC: Single Crochet

SC3TOG: Single Crochet 3 stitches together

Notes:

You will need a pillow insert 2 inches larger than the finished pillow size.

You will be crocheting in the round from corner to corner and will not turn. I do recommend marking the corners with stitch markers and moving them up along with your work.

Hold 3 strands of yarn together throughout the pattern. The painted crochet technique creates an ombre effect by changing the color of one of the three strands at a time. You will be dropping one strand and picking up a new color strand when indicated.

Before you start, make 1 ball of each color around 90 yards long. When you need two strands of a color, pick up from both ends of the skein. When you need the third strand of the same color, add the ball you just made. *You may just want to buy 2 skeins of each color instead to avoid making the balls of each color. It’s easier.

The first pillow will be 3 colors and 40 rounds total:
3 strands of red for 11.5 rounds
2 strands of red, 1 strand of orange for 2 rounds
1 strand of red, 2 strands of orange for 2 rounds
3 strands of orange for 8 rounds
2 strands of orange, 1 strand of yellow for 2 rounds
1 strand of orange, 2 strands of yellow for 2 rounds
3 strands of yellow for 12.5 rounds

The second pillow will be 4 colors and 44 rounds total:
3 strands of green for 9.5 rounds
2 strands of green, 1 strand of blue for 2 rounds
1 strand of green, 2 strands of blue for 2 rounds
3 strands of blue for 6 rounds
2 strands of blue, 1 strand of dark blue for 2 rounds
1 strand of blue, 2 strands of dark blue for 2 rounds
3 strands of dark blue for 6 rounds
2 strands of dark blue, 1 strand of purple for 2 rounds
1 strand of dark blue, 2 strands of purple for 2 rounds
3 strands of purple for 10.5 rounds

Pattern:

First Pillow (3 colors, 16″ pillow insert):

Round 1:  Starting with 3 strands of Red Yarn, 6SC in a magic ring [6]

Round 2: (1 SC, 3 SC in the next SC – mark center SC with a stitch marker – move these up when you work each row, 1 SC) 2x (10)

Round 3: (2 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 2 SC) 2x (14)

Round 4: (3 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 3 SC) 2x (18)

Round 5: (4 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 4 SC) 2x (22)

Round 6: (5 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 5 SC) 2x (26)

Round 7: (6 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 6 SC) 2x (30)

Round 8: (7 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 7 SC) 2x (34)

Round 9: (8 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 8 SC) 2x (38)

Round 10: (9 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 9 SC) 2x (42)

Round 11: (10 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 10 SC) 2x (46)

Round 12: 11 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 22 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up one strand of orange, you will now be working with 2 strands red and 1 strand orange), 11 SC (50)

Round 13: (12 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 12 SC) 2x (54)

Round 14: 13 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 26 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up another strand of orange, you will now be working with 1 strand red and 2 strands orange), 13 SC (58)

Round 15: (14 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 14 SC) 2x (62)

Round 16: 15 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 30 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up another strand of orange, you will now be working with 3 strands orange), 15 SC (66)

Round 17: (16 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 16 SC) 2x (70)

Round 18: (17 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 17 SC) 2x (74)

Round 19: (18 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC) 2x (78)

Round 20: (19 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 19 SC) 2x (82)

Round 21: SC in each stitch around (82)

Round 22: (19 SC, SC3TOG, 19 SC) 2x (78)

Round 23: (18 SC, SC3TOG, 18 SC) 2x (74)

Round 24: 17 SC, SC3TOG, 34 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up a strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with two strands orange and one strand yellow), 17 SC (70)

Round 25: (16 SC, SC3TOG, 16 SC) 2x (66)

Round 26: 15 SC, SC3TOG, 30 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up another strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with one strand orange and two strands yellow), 15 SC (62)

Round 27: (14 SC, SC3TOG, 14 SC) 2x (58)

Round 28: 13 SC, SC3TOG, 26 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up another strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with three strands yellow), 13 SC (54)

Round 29: (12 SC, SC3TOG, 12 SC) 2x (48)

Round 30: (11 SC, SC3TOG, 11 SC) 2x (44)

Turn inside out and weave in the ends, turn right side out and continue.

Round 31: (10 SC, SC3TOG, 10 SC) 2x (40)

Round 32: (9 SC, SC3TOG, 9 SC) 2x (36)

Round 33: (8 SC, SC3TOG, 8 SC) 2x (32)

Round 34: (7 SC, SC3TOG, 7 SC) 2x (30)

Put the pillow insert in. You will be crocheting around the pillow insert for the rest of the pillow.

Round 35: (6 SC, SC3TOG, 6 SC) 2x (26)

Round 36: (5 SC, SC3TOG, 5 SC) 2x (22)

Round 37: (4 SC, SC3TOG, 4 SC) 2x (18)

Round 38: (3 SC, SC3TOG, 3 SC) 2x (14)

Round 39: (2 SC, SC3TOG, 2 SC) 2x (10)

Round 40: (1 SC, SC3TOG, 1 SC) 2x (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail, thread tail through the last six stitches and pull tight. Stitch a few times to close up the corner and weave in the ends.

Second Pillow (4 colors, 18″ pillow insert):

Round 1:  Starting with 3 strands of Green Yarn, 6SC in a magic ring [6]

Round 2: (1 SC, 3 SC in the next SC – mark center SC with a stitch marker – move these up when you work each row, 1 SC) 2x (10)

Round 3: (2 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 2 SC) 2x (14)

Round 4: (3 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 3 SC) 2x (18)

Round 5: (4 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 4 SC) 2x (22)

Round 6: (5 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 5 SC) 2x (26)

Round 7: (6 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 6 SC) 2x (30)

Round 8: (7 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 7 SC) 2x (34)

Round 9: (8 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 8 SC) 2x (38)

Round 10: 9 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC, 3SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up one strand of blue, you will now be working with 2 strands green and 1 strand blue), 9 SC (42)

Round 11: (10 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 10 SC) 2x (46)

Round 12: 11 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 22 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up one strand of blue, you will now be working with 2 strands blue and 1 strand green), 11 SC (50)

Round 13: (12 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 12 SC) 2x (54)

Round 14: 13 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 26 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up another strand of blue, you will now be working with 3 strands blue), 13 SC (58)

Round 15: (14 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 14 SC) 2x (62)

Round 16: (15 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 15 SC) 2x (66)

Round 17: (16 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 16 SC) 2x (70)

Round 18: (17 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 17 SC) 2x (74)

Round 19: (18 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC) 2x (78)

Round 20: 19 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 38 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of blue and pick up one strand of dark blue, you will now be working with 2 strands blue and 1 strand dark blue), 19 SC(82)

Round 21: (20 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 20 SC) 2x (86)

Round 22: 21 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 42 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of blue and pick up one strand of dark blue, you will now be working with 2 strands dark blue and 1 strand blue), 21 SC (90)

Round 23: SC in each stitch around (90)

Round 24: 21 SC, SC3TOG, 42 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of blue and pick up a strand of dark blue then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 3 strands dark blue), 21 SC(86)

Round 25: (20 SC, SC3TOG, 20 SC) 2x (82)

Round 26: (19 SC, SC3TOG, 19 SC) 2x (78)

Round 27: (18 SC, SC3TOG, 18 SC) 2x (74)

Round 28: (17 SC, SC3TOG, 17 SC) 2x (70)

Round 29: (16 SC, SC3TOG, 16 SC) 2x (66)

Round 30:  15 SC, SC3TOG, 30 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 2 strands dark blue and 1 strand purple), 15 SC (62)

Round 31: (14 SC, SC3TOG, 14 SC) 2x (58)

Round 32: 13 SC, SC3TOG, 26 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 2 strands purple and 1 strand dark blue), 13 SC(54)

Round 33: (12 SC, SC3TOG, 12 SC) 2x (48)

Round 34: 11 SC, SC3TOG, 22 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 3 strands purple), 11 SC (44)

Round 35: (10 SC, SC3TOG, 10 SC) 2x (40)

Round 36: (9 SC, SC3TOG, 9 SC) 2x (36)

Round 37: (8 SC, SC3TOG, 8 SC) 2x (32)

Turn inside out and weave in the ends, turn right side out. Put the pillow insert in. You will be crocheting around the pillow insert for the rest of the pillow.

Round 38: (7 SC, SC3TOG, 7 SC) 2x (30)

Round 39: (6 SC, SC3TOG, 6 SC) 2x (26)

Round 40: (5 SC, SC3TOG, 5 SC) 2x (22)

Round 41: (4 SC, SC3TOG, 4 SC) 2x (18)

Round 42: (3 SC, SC3TOG, 3 SC) 2x (14)

Round 43: (2 SC, SC3TOG, 2 SC) 2x (10)

Round 44: (1 SC, SC3TOG, 1 SC) 2x (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail, thread tail through the last six stitches and pull tight. Stitch a few times to close up the corner and weave in the ends.

I was very sad to hear of the passing of an old friend from high school earlier this week. Tania this pattern is dedicated to you. I hope you have finally found peace on the other side of the rainbow.

Tania was a kind and sad creative soul. Her documentary New York City Subculture 1996 about the NYC mid-90’s punk scene lives on on YouTube and her book of poems, Elusive, is available for Kindle.

Free Pattern: Snow No? a cowl

Before I begin, let me say Happy NatCroMo! That’s right, it’s National Crochet Month, so get that hook out and join the party. Now, onto the cowl…

Monday the snow did me wrong. After a winter of hating the snow and fighting against it, I finally embraced it. Over a foot was on the way. School and work were sure to be closed. I looked forward to it. And then… it didn’t show up.

In anticipation, I made a matching cowl to No More Snow! a hat. While the snow was a no show, single digits did make a comeback and this cowl did get play this week. Similar to Spareribs, but a little smaller with ribbed edging that lets it be pulled over your nose or mouth, Snow No? will keep you super toasty against the brutal winds and ridiculous temperatures.

Here’s the pattern for Snow No! a cowl:

Materials:

300 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.5 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
H crochet hook (5.0 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
SC: Single Crochet
SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Pattern:

Body of Cowl (with J hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 99 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (100)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3 one more time

Round 25: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Do not finish off. The body of the cowl is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of Cowl (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your H hook, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Now you’ll work the other side of the ribbing.

Row 1: Still using your H hook, with the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: Spareribs – A Cowl

While I’m a big fan of the infinity scarf worn doubled, I love the feel of this shorter, wider shape. It’s a fun, warm hug of yarn around your neck!

Spareribs is the perfect cowl to take on this nasty winter. It matches Worm on a Hook and No More Snow! a hat, Spareribs is inspired by several similar looking knit patterns: Jane Richmond’s Welted Cowl, Churchmouse Yarns and Teas’ Welted Cowl & Infinity Loop, and of course Wurm done as a cowl. If you’re neck is in need of a warm yarn hug, give it a shot.

Here’s the pattern for Spareribs – A Cowl:

Materials:

375 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.7 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

 

Abbreviations:

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain

FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Pattern:

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 105 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (106)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 5-28: Repeat Rounds 2-4 eight more times

Round 29-30: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 31: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 32: Turn, you are now working on the wrong side, SS around to tighten up the last row, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

FO and weave in the ends. Steam block to relax the yarn. This cowl done in Paton’s Classic Wool was CRAZY stiff before blocking. Paton’s Classic Wool also really softens up when you wet block it, so if steaming is still too stiff for you, wet block it.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.