Free Pattern: Baby D – a just-hatched duckling

Baby D

Smaller than the Ultra Mini Ugly, tinier than Lil Other Brother, Baby D is the cutest just-hatched duckling you’ll ever want to give away. The latest duck I’ve been making for The Little Yellow Duck Project, Baby D is a really small version of Darryl – a duck and with only 11 rounds for the body and head and another 2 for the beak, he works up in well under an hour, like a half hour or less. Like some of the other mini ducks, Baby D is a great size to be used as a bag charm, backpack clip, or key chain.

Materials:

Just a little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
6mm black safety eyes
E crochet hook (3.5 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

Round 1: Ch 7, Starting with second chain from hook, 5SC, 4 SC in same stitch, now crochet back up the other side, 5SC, inc (last increase is in the first chain) (16)

Round 2: 14SC, inc, SC (17)

Round 3: inc, 14SC, inc, SC (19)

Round 4: inc, 16SC, inc, SC (21)

Round 5: inc, 8SC, 3SCtog, 8SC, 3SCtog (you’ll include 2 stitches from the next round in your last 3SCtog) (20)

Round 6: Flatten in half, 6SS through both sides starting by slip stitching through the next stitch and the stitch before the SC3tog you just made, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be 5 stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

Round 7: (SC, inc) 3x (last inc in SS) (9)

Round 8: (2SC, inc) around (12)

Rounds 9-10: SC around (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 1 row down from the top, 4SC apart.

Round 11: (dec) 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 11 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

Round 1: CH 3, (SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (6)

Round 2: (2SC, inc) 2x (8)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head with running stitch.

You’re done!

Baby D a just hatched duckling crochet pattern

20160506_065730-1.jpg

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Free Pattern: Darryl – a duck

Free Crochet Pattern: Darryl - a duck

Free Crochet Pattern: Darryl – a duck

Final tweaks made and Darryl is finally ready to be posted! Darryl is the second duck from Duck Evolution and works up in an hour or less. I’m making a few more this morning getting ready to release them at the Rubber Duck Derby in Tarrytown, NY today as part of The Little Yellow Duck Project. Seems like the perfect event to be releasing crocheted ducks into the wild.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
9mm black safety eyes
G crochet hook (4.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

After round 1

After round 1

Round 1: Ch 12, Starting with second chain from hook, 10SC, inc, now crochet back up the other side, inc, 9SC, inc (25)

Round 2: 11SC, inc, inc, 11SC, inc (28)

Round 3: 26SC, inc, SC (29)

Round 4: inc, 26SC, inc, SC (31)

Round 5: inc, 28SC, inc, SC (33)

Round 6: inc, 30SC, inc, SC (35)

Round 7: inc, 32SC, inc, SC (37)

Round 8: inc, 16SC, 3SCtog, 16SC, 3SCtog (you’ll include 1 stitch from next round in your last 3SCtog) (35)

Round 9: Flatten in half, SS13 through both sides starting by slip stitching through the next stitch and the stitch before the SC3tog you just made, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be 7 stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

After round 9

After round 9

Slip Stitch through both sides

Slip Stitch through both sides

 

Round 10:  inc, inc, SC, inc, inc, SC, inc (12)

After completing Round 10

After completing Round 10

Round 11: (SC, inc) around (18)

Rounds 12-15: SC around (18)

After round 15

After round 15

Round 16: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 3 rows down from the top, 6SC apart.

Round 17: (dec) 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 17 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

After beak round 3

After beak round 3

Round 1: CH 4, (2SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (8)

Round 2: (3SC, inc) 2x (10)

Round 3: (4SC, inc) inc (12)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head.

You’re done!

 

P.S. Keep an eye out for more sizes of Darryl still being developed.

 

Darryl's Family

Darryl's Family

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Free Pattern: Lil Other Brother – a tiny duck

Lil Other Brother - a tiny duck

While in the middle of little yellow duck mass production yesterday, I couldn’t resist temptation and created a half size of Other Brother Darryl. The pattern worked out just as imagined and Lil Other Brother was born. This one works up in a half hour or less so you can make even more for The Little Yellow Duck Project. Because its smaller, it’s also a great size for a bag clip or keychain.

Other Brother Darryl with 2 Lil Other Brothers

Other Brother Darryl with 2 Lil Other Brothers

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
9mm black safety eyes
G crochet hook (4.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

After Round 1

After Round 1

Round 1: Ch 7, Starting with second chain from hook, 5SC, 3SC in last chain, now crochet back up the other side 4SC, 2SC in last chain (14)

Round 2: 6SC, inc, 7SC (15)

Round 3: 7SC, inc, 7SC (16)

Round 4: 8SC, inc, 7SC (17)

Round 5: 8SC, inc, 8SC (18)

Round 6: SC3tog, 5SC, SC3tog, flatten in half, SS4 through both sides starting by slip stitching through the next stitch and the stitch before the SC3tog you just made, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be 5 stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

After completing Round 6

After completing Round 6

Slip Stitch through both sides

Slip Stitch through both sides

Round 7: (SC, inc) 3x (The last inc will be in the SS connecting the 2 sides) (9)

Round 8: inc around (18)

After Round 8

After Round 8

Rounds 9-11: SC around (18)

After Round 11

After Round 11

Round 12: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 3 rows down from the top, 6SC apart.

Round 13: dec 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 19 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

After Beak Round 2

After Round 2

Round 1: CH 3, (SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (6)

Round 2: (2SC, inc) 2x (8)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head onto bottom row of eyes.

You’re done… now go make some more!

 

 

Lil Other Brother - a duck

Finished Lil Other Brother

Lil Other Brothers with Other Brother Darryl

5 Lil Other Brothers and 2 Other Brother Darryls

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Free Pattern: Other Brother Darryl – a duck

Other Brother Darryl - a duck

Free Crochet Pattern for Other Brother Darryl – a duck

To celebrate Little Yellow Duck Day (which was officially yesterday), I am finally posting the patterns for Larry, Darryl, and Other Brother Darryl. They all work up in an hour or less and are great for The Little Yellow Duck Project. Hopefully you’ll make a bunch and spread them all over the world.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. (The head and body are worked in one color. The beak is in another color and needs very little yarn.)
12mm black safety eyes
G crochet hook (4.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Polyfill Stuffing

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 in main color):

Round 1 - Other Brother Darryl

After Round 1

Round 1: Ch 11, Starting with second chain from hook, 9SC, 3SC in last chain, now crochet back up the other side 8SC, 2SC in last chain (22)

Round 2: 10SC, inc, 11SC (23)

Round 3: 11SC, inc, 11SC (24)

Round 4: 12SC, inc, 11SC (25)

Round 5: 12SC, inc, 12SC (26)

Round 6: 13SC, inc, 12SC (27)

Round 7: 13SC, inc, 13SC (28)

Round 8: 15SC, inc, 12SC (29)

Round 9: 15SC, inc, 13SC (30)

Round 10: SC3tog, 12SC, SC3tog, SS9 through both sides, stuff (not a full round, you will be slip stitching the top together through both sides to finish the body, there will be a few stitches left unworked, that is where you will be working the head in the next round)

After round 10

After completing Round 10

Slip Stitch through both sides

Slip Stitch through both sides

Round 11: (SC, inc) 4x (The last inc will be in the SS connecting the 2 sides) (12)

After Round 11

After Round 11

Round 12: inc around (24)

Rounds 13-16: SC around (24)

After Round 16

After Round 16

Round 17: (2SC, dec) 6x (18)

Round 18: (SC, dec) 6x (12)

Add plastic safety eyes 4 rows down from the top, 8SC apart.

Round 19: dec 6x (6)

FO leaving long tail

Stuff head

Weave tail through front loop of Round 19 and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into head.

 

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

After Beak Round 2

After Beak Round 2

Round 1: CH 4, (2SC, inc), repeat up the other side of the chain (8)

Round 2: (3SC, inc) 2x (10)

FO leaving long tail

Sew beak onto head on row below eyes.

You’re done!

 

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Free Pattern: Ultra Mini Ugly – a teeny tiny lil duck

 

Ultra Mini UglyThe Ultra Mini Ugly – a teeny tiny lil duck is the smallest size Ugly. The little brother of A Lil Ugly, the Ultra Mini Ugly was also created for The Little Yellow Duck Project and works up in under an hour. I’m posting the Ugly patterns in three sizes as three separate patterns so that they are easier to read. A Lil Ugly (the next size up), was posted a few days ago. The full size Ugly pattern should be up in the next few days.

A Lil Ugly and an Ultra Mini Ugly

A Lil Ugly (left) and an Ultra Mini Ugly (right) for size comparison

Exactly which worsted weight yarn you use makes a big difference in the final size. In the below picture of three different Ultra Mini Uglies, the one on the left is make in Red Heart Super Saver and came out the biggest. The other two use Red Heart Super Saver for the beak and feet only. The two grey ducks were made from ends of balls of yarn I had lying around and I’m not sure what yarn they were made from, but they were worsted weight yarns.

Three Ultra Mini Uglies in Different Types of Worsted Weight Yarn

Three Ultra Mini Uglies in Different Types of Worsted Weight Yarn

Ultra Mini Ugly with large jump ring and lobster claw

Even though they were made out of worsted weight yarn, some of the Ultra Mini Uglies I made were too small to be released in the wild with just a Little Yellow Duck tag attached so I added a jump ring and lobster claw which can be found in the jewelry findings section of a craft store. The metal of the ring was easy to bend open and closed with my bare hands and was not difficult to put on the duck. The clasps are fun because you can clip the duck onto gates or wire fences and you do not need to worry about the duck blowing away in the wind. I did add a warning to the LYD tags to remove the metal ring and clasp before giving to a child.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.
6mm or 9mm black safety eyes
E crochet hook (3.5mm)
Tapestry Needle
Optional – large lobster claw and jump ring to use the Ugly as a key chain or bag clip

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
DC: Double Crochet
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
FLO: Front Loops Only
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 start in main color):

Round 1: 6SC in magic circle (6)

Round 2: (SC, 4SC in next SC, SC) 2x (12)

Round 3: (inc, SC) 6x (18)

Round 4: (inc, 2SC) 6x (24)

Rounds 5-7: SC around (24)

Round 8: (SC, SC3tog, 3SC, SC3tog, 2SC) 2x (16)

Round 9: (SC, SC3tog) 4x (8)

Yellow Ugly HeadFlatten the head. Your working yarn will be on the left towards the front. Add plastic safety eyes between rows 7 and 8 1 sc apart.

Stuff

Round 10: SC around (8)

Round 11: inc around (16)

Rounds 12: SC around (16)

Round 13: dec around (8)

Round 14: dec (the dec should be in the front center, if it is not, SC until you get to the front center), change to contrasting color, FLO for the rest of the round: in the first stitch (SS, HDC) in the next stitch (DC, HDC), 2 SC, in the next stitch (DC, HDC)

Stuff

Round 15: Change back to main color, SC through both loops, 3 dec in unworked back loop from last round, FO leaving a long tail. (4)

Pull the loose end in contrasting color where the feet ended into the body and tie a knot with the other end of the yarn from the feet. Pull it into the body.

Weave tail from main color through final round and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into body.

Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

Round 1: CH 1, 4 FSC, turn and SC up other side (8)
Round 2: HDC around (8)
FO leaving long tail
Sew beak onto head. I like to use 3 or 4 longer stitches between the eyes when sewing on the beak.

Wings (make 2 in main color):

You will be working on both sides of the chain.
CH 3, Turn, SC in second chain from hook, inc, continue to work up the other side of the chain working over your end, inc, inc (7)
SS into the first stich and FO
Pull both ends tight

Sew wings onto body.

You’re done!

Free Pattern: A Lil Ugly – a pocket size duck

A Lil Grey Ugly - a pocket size duck

A Lil Ugly – a pocket size duck is the perfect size for The Little Yellow Duck Project. It works up in about an hour but is still large enough for The Little Yellow Duck tag to be tied around it’s neck without falling off. I’ve made the Ugly pattern in 3 sizes. This is the middle size.

Materials:

A little worsted weight yarn in 2 colors. If you use a thinner weight yarn use a C hook or smaller. If you use a bulky or super bulky weight yarn, use a larger hook.
9mm black safety eyes
C or E crochet hook (2.5mm or 3.5mm). The smaller hook will make a smaller Ugly.
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations (US Terms):

CH: Chain
DC: Double Crochet
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
dec: Single Crochet Decrease
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
FLO: Front Loops Only
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
inc: Single Crochet Increase
SC: Single Crochet
SC3tog: Single Crochet 3 Together
SS: Slip Stitch

Notes:

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head and Body (make 1 start in main color):

Round 1: 6SC in magic circle (6)

Round 2: (SC, 4SC in next SC, SC) 2x (12)

Round 3: (inc, SC) 6x (18)

Round 4: (inc, 2SC) 6x (24)

Round 5: (inc, 3SC) 6x (30)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30)

Round 9: (dec, 3SC) 6x (24)

Round 10: SC around (24)

Round 11: (SC, 3SCtog, 3SC, 3SCtog, 2SC) 2x (16)

Round 12: (SC, dec, SC) 4x (12)

Round 13: SC around (12)

Ugly Head with EyesFlatten the head. Your working yarn will be on the left towards the front. Add plastic safety eyes between rows 9 and 10 1 sc apart.

Stuff

Round 14: (SC, inc) 6x (18)

Rounds 15-16: SC around (18)

Round 17: (SC, Dec) 6x (12)

Start Feet of UglyRound 18 (and part of 19): SC, dec, (the dec should be in the front center, if it is not, SC until you get to the front center), change to contrasting color, FLO for the rest of the round: in the first stitch (SS, HDC, 2DC) in the next stitch (DC, HDC), 6 SC, in the next stitch (HDC, DC), next stitch (2DC, HDC, SS)

Final Round (starts a few stitches into round 19): Change back to main color, SC through both loops, 5 dec in unworked back loop from last round, FO leaving a long tail. (6)

Stuff

Pull the loose end in contrasting color where the feet ended into the body and tie a knot with the other end of the yarn from the feet. Pull it into the body.

Weave tail from main color through final round and pull tight. Tie knot and pull into body.

wpid-20150415_213116-1.jpg

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Beak (make 1 in contrasting color):

wpid-20150415_213049-1.jpgRound 1: CH 1, 5 FSC, turn and SC up other side (10)
Rounds 2-3: SC around (10)
FO leaving long tail
Sew beak onto head. I like to use 3 or 4 longer stitches between the eyes when sewing on the beak.

 

Wings (make 2 in main color):

wpid-20150415_214030-1.jpgYou will be working on both sides of the chain.
CH 4, Turn, inc, 3SCinc, inc, continue to work up the other side of the chain working over your end, inc, 3SCinc, inc (14)
SS into the first stich and FO
Pull both ends tight

Sew wings onto body.

You’re done!

 

 

Dark Grey Lil Ugly

Elsa, More Elsas, and Some Annas

Elsa and Anna crocheted dolls

Elsa and Anna ready for a birthday party

Two months later and the Elsa requests just keep coming in.

Back in May I made Elsa for my son after repeated requests. He took her to school (and everywhere else he went) and when he came home it was, “Mommy I need 6 more Elsas and Marshmallow or a troll.” Uh… what? He needed one for all of his Frozen fan friends. Some also wanted Anna. I reminded him I had a day job. He decided we should open a Frozen stand, you know, like a lemonade stand but with Frozen amis. I again reminded him I had a day job. He insisted we would make a lot more money with a Frozen stand than I would at work. He was probably right, but I did not quit my job.

My Son's Anna

My Son’s Anna

I mentioned all of this to a coworker. Her and her sister put in their requests which totaled 3 more Elsas and Annas for their daughters. I was now up to to 13 Frozen ami requests, which didn’t even include my son’s request for an Anna of his own.

When I went to read to my son’s class one day, one of the girls asked me when I was going to make their Elsas. I really needed to get started. In my head I was going to make all these Elsas before the end of school. As is more my style, I waited until a few days before the last day of school and crocheted feverishly staying up late but finishing only 4 of the requested 6. I made two each of two different patterns. Two had mouths and two did not. The two without mouths quickly acquired mouths when the new owners grabbed highlighters and drew them on (to my son’s dismay). Lesson learned, make sure to include a mouth.  My son came home saying everyone wished their mom could make Frozen people too. I had Frozen superpowers!

More Anna and Elsas for the Party

More Anna and Elsas for the Party

So here it was 3 weeks after school got out and while I had made a lot of ducks, I had made no more Elsas and my son’s Frozen birthday party was just days away. The Elsaless kids were sure to be there. This time in my head, I was going to be able to make 3 Elsas, 3 Annas, a bunch of trolls and some Olafs. As I sewed together a troll an hour before the party, my Frozen ami count was at all of 5. 2 Elsas, 2 Annas, and 1 troll. Being that I was not quite sure how many people were going I was resigned to knowing this was all that was getting done before the party.

Troll Cliff from Frozen

Troll Cliff from Frozen

As it turned out, less kids than I thought ended up at the party, which was good. Who wanted Anna? Only 2 hands went up. Great! I had 2 Annas. Who wanted Elsas? 3 hands went up, so we did a raffle which of course ended up with one very upset boy. Luckily for my guilt, the boy goes to camp with my son, so we struck a deal that he’d get one in a few days. The troll happened to be requested by someone who came to the party so he got his troll. Of course he said he really wanted Marshmallow. I almost tool the troll back.

After a total of 7 Elsas, 3 Annas, and 1 troll being completed, I still have outstanding requests for 4 Elsas and 3 Annas as well as 2 half made Olafs lying around. I almost feel like if I finish them, I’ll just end up with more requests and it will never end. My father, aunt, and husband keep talking about Olaf. Are they dropping hints?

So after a bit of Frozen ami experience with a few different patterns, I will say I have ended up with some favorites. The first Elsa I made for my son was by Ohana Craft. She has patterns for several of the Frozen characters including young and older versions. Her patterns, like several of the Frozen patterns I found, are not cheap. I made her Anna for my son also, and I love how she came out. However, I did get into a fight with a glue gun while making her and I did not win. I think the burns are still healing. Because the Ohana Craft Elsa and Anna were both larger, they took longer, so I chose smaller patterns for mass production. Jana Whitley’s Elsa and Anna patterns were my favorites. They work up very quickly and are super cute. They’re also only $3.00 each. While the Jana Whitley Elsa hair is very clever and quick construction, the hair from Sahrit’s Elsa pattern is absolutely amazing. My favorite Elsa is made following the Jana Whitley pattern but with the Sahrit Elsa hair. My favorite Anna uses the Jana Whitley pattern but I hooked the hair onto the wig cap instead of using a sewing machine. While I’ll be using the Jana Whitley patterns for my 7 remaining requests, I did come across some INCREDIBLE Elsa and Anna patterns last week on Etsy. They were expensive but also super amazing. I bought one of them and it does look like a project that will take quite a while, so it will not make it into my mass production pattern collection. Not to be forgotten, I do love how my troll came out. I only found one pattern for the trolls, but you only need one. The designer of the troll pattern just released Marshmallow the day before my son’s party. If I get a breather between Elsa’s I might give him a shot. Interestingly, I did find that several of the Frozen patterns contained errors. Not a huge deal, but it did make them take longer to make, especially since I didn’t write notes on the patterns the first time around.

Jana Whitley Elsa - Hair from pattern as written

Jana Whitley Elsa – Hair from pattern as written

wpid-20140619_233354.jpgwpid-20140619_233408.jpg

Sahrit Elsa (with mouth)

Sahrit Elsa (with mouth)

Sahrit Elsa back view

Sahrit Elsa back view

So, I’m curious to know if you’ve made any Elsas and if so have you been swamped with requests for more and more and more? If you crochet, haven’t made any, and know any 3-9 year olds, what are you waiting for? You too can be a Frozen superhero. All you need is some yarn, a hook, and maybe a pattern or two.

Free Pattern: Snow No? a cowl

Snow no a cowlBefore I begin, let me say Happy NatCroMo! That’s right, it’s National Crochet Month, so get that hook out and join the party. Now, onto the cowl…

Snow No flat viewMonday the snow did me wrong. After a winter of hating the snow and fighting against it, I finally embraced it. Over a foot was on the way. School and work were sure to be closed. I looked forward to it. And then… it didn’t show up.

In anticipation, I made a matching cowl to No More Snow! a hat. While the snow was a no show, single digits did make a comeback and this cowl did get play this week. Similar to Spareribs, but a little smaller with ribbed edging that lets it be pulled over your nose or mouth, Snow No? will keep you super toasty against the brutal winds and ridiculous temperatures.

Here’s the pattern for Snow No! a cowl:

Materials:

300 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.5 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
H crochet hook (5.0 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL
1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL
2 – YO, pull up a loop
3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC:
Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch
2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch
3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.
4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
SC: Single Crochet
SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Snow no cowlPattern:

Body of Cowl (with J hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 99 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (100)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3 one more time

Round 25: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Do not finish off. The body of the cowl is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of Cowl (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your H hook, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Now you’ll work the other side of the ribbing.

Row 1: Still using your H hook, with the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: Spareribs – A Cowl

Spareribs - A Cowl

While I’m a big fan of the infinity scarf worn doubled, I love the feel of this shorter, wider shape. It’s a fun, warm hug of yarn around your neck!

Spareribs is the perfect cowl to take on this nasty winter. It matches Worm on a Hook and No More Snow! a hat, Spareribs is inspired by several similar looking knit patterns: Jane Richmond’s Welted Cowl, Churchmouse Yarns and Teas’ Welted Cowl & Infinity Loop, and of course Wurm done as a cowl. If you’re neck is in need of a warm yarn hug, give it a shot.

Spareribs and No More Snow

Here’s the pattern for Spareribs – A Cowl:

Materials:

375 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.7 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

 

Abbreviations:

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL
1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL
2 – YO, pull up a loop
3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain

FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch
2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch
3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.
4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Pattern:

Spareribs CowlThe body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 105 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (106)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 5-28: Repeat Rounds 2-4 eight more times

Round 29-30: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 31: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 32: Turn, you are now working on the wrong side, SS around to tighten up the last row, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

FO and weave in the ends. Steam block to relax the yarn. This cowl done in Paton’s Classic Wool was CRAZY stiff before blocking. Paton’s Classic Wool also really softens up when you wet block it, so if steaming is still too stiff for you, wet block it.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: No More Snow! a hat

No More Snow! a hat

No More Snow! a hat

It cannot possibly be snowing again. But it is.

To vent my frustration I made another hat. A cross between Big Worm and Worm on a Hook, No More Snow! is a little larger than Worm on a Hook without the taper rows and with a smaller slip stitch ribbed edge than Big Worm. No More Snow! probably ended up to be the closest of the three hat patterns to Wurm.

Here’s the pattern for No More Snow! (and I mean it):

No More Snow Crocheted HatMaterials:

275 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.25 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
H crochet hook (5.0 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL
1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL
2 – YO, pull up a loop
3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC:
Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch
2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch
3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.
4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
HDC2TOG in BBL: Half Double Crochet 2 Together in Back Back Loop
SS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Closeup of No More Snow! a hatBack of No More Snow HatPattern:

Pattern is written for an adult size hat. Notes are included to adjust for child size hat.

Body of Hat (with J hook):

The body of the hat is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

For a Child size hat, start with a foundation row of 78 stitches.

To make the hat smaller or larger than the pattern, you can just add more or less stitches to the foundation row and do more or less repeats of rounds 2-4.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 83 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (84)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (84)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (84)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (84)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 25: Ch 1, HDC2TOG in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (42)

FO leaving long tail. Weave the tail in and out of each stitch of the last round and pull tight to close. Stitch a few stitches to secure and close up opening.

The body of the hat is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of hat (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.
Upon request, a video of the edging is now available.

For a Child size hat, Ch 6 instead of 8.

Row 1: With the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 8, turn. (8)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (8)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (8)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (8)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (8)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

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