Elsa, More Elsas, and Some Annas

Elsa and Anna crocheted dolls

Elsa and Anna ready for a birthday party

Two months later and the Elsa requests just keep coming in.

Back in May I made Elsa for my son after repeated requests. He took her to school (and everywhere else he went) and when he came home it was, “Mommy I need 6 more Elsas and Marshmallow or a troll.” Uh… what? He needed one for all of his Frozen fan friends. Some also wanted Anna. I reminded him I had a day job. He decided we should open a Frozen stand, you know, like a lemonade stand but with Frozen amis. I again reminded him I had a day job. He insisted we would make a lot more money with a Frozen stand than I would at work. He was probably right, but I did not quit my job.

My Son's Anna

My Son’s Anna

I mentioned all of this to a coworker. Her and her sister put in their requests which totaled 3 more Elsas and Annas for their daughters. I was now up to to 13 Frozen ami requests, which didn’t even include my son’s request for an Anna of his own.

When I went to read to my son’s class one day, one of the girls asked me when I was going to make their Elsas. I really needed to get started. In my head I was going to make all these Elsas before the end of school. As is more my style, I waited until a few days before the last day of school and crocheted feverishly staying up late but finishing only 4 of the requested 6. I made two each of two different patterns. Two had mouths and two did not. The two without mouths quickly acquired mouths when the new owners grabbed highlighters and drew them on (to my son’s dismay). Lesson learned, make sure to include a mouth.  My son came home saying everyone wished their mom could make Frozen people too. I had Frozen superpowers!

More Anna and Elsas for the Party

More Anna and Elsas for the Party

So here it was 3 weeks after school got out and while I had made a lot of ducks, I had made no more Elsas and my son’s Frozen birthday party was just days away. The Elsaless kids were sure to be there. This time in my head, I was going to be able to make 3 Elsas, 3 Annas, a bunch of trolls and some Olafs. As I sewed together a troll an hour before the party, my Frozen ami count was at all of 5. 2 Elsas, 2 Annas, and 1 troll. Being that I was not quite sure how many people were going I was resigned to knowing this was all that was getting done before the party.

Troll Cliff from Frozen

Troll Cliff from Frozen

As it turned out, less kids than I thought ended up at the party, which was good. Who wanted Anna? Only 2 hands went up. Great! I had 2 Annas. Who wanted Elsas? 3 hands went up, so we did a raffle which of course ended up with one very upset boy. Luckily for my guilt, the boy goes to camp with my son, so we struck a deal that he’d get one in a few days. The troll happened to be requested by someone who came to the party so he got his troll. Of course he said he really wanted Marshmallow. I almost tool the troll back.

After a total of 7 Elsas, 3 Annas, and 1 troll being completed, I still have outstanding requests for 4 Elsas and 3 Annas as well as 2 half made Olafs lying around. I almost feel like if I finish them, I’ll just end up with more requests and it will never end. My father, aunt, and husband keep talking about Olaf. Are they dropping hints?

So after a bit of Frozen ami experience with a few different patterns, I will say I have ended up with some favorites. The first Elsa I made for my son was by Ohana Craft. She has patterns for several of the Frozen characters including young and older versions. Her patterns, like several of the Frozen patterns I found, are not cheap. I made her Anna for my son also, and I love how she came out. However, I did get into a fight with a glue gun while making her and I did not win. I think the burns are still healing. Because the Ohana Craft Elsa and Anna were both larger, they took longer, so I chose smaller patterns for mass production. Jana Whitley’s Elsa and Anna patterns were my favorites. They work up very quickly and are super cute. They’re also only $3.00 each. While the Jana Whitley Elsa hair is very clever and quick construction, the hair from Sahrit’s Elsa pattern is absolutely amazing. My favorite Elsa is made following the Jana Whitley pattern but with the Sahrit Elsa hair. My favorite Anna uses the Jana Whitley pattern but I hooked the hair onto the wig cap instead of using a sewing machine. While I’ll be using the Jana Whitley patterns for my 7 remaining requests, I did come across some INCREDIBLE Elsa and Anna patterns last week on Etsy. They were expensive but also super amazing. I bought one of them and it does look like a project that will take quite a while, so it will not make it into my mass production pattern collection. Not to be forgotten, I do love how my troll came out. I only found one pattern for the trolls, but you only need one. The designer of the troll pattern just released Marshmallow the day before my son’s party. If I get a breather between Elsa’s I might give him a shot. Interestingly, I did find that several of the Frozen patterns contained errors. Not a huge deal, but it did make them take longer to make, especially since I didn’t write notes on the patterns the first time around.

Jana Whitley Elsa - Hair from pattern as written

Jana Whitley Elsa – Hair from pattern as written

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Sahrit Elsa (with mouth)

Sahrit Elsa (with mouth)

Sahrit Elsa back view

Sahrit Elsa back view

So, I’m curious to know if you’ve made any Elsas and if so have you been swamped with requests for more and more and more? If you crochet, haven’t made any, and know any 3-9 year olds, what are you waiting for? You too can be a Frozen superhero. All you need is some yarn, a hook, and maybe a pattern or two.

Little Yellow Ducks Invade NY

Coworker Ducks

For the past 2 weeks I’ve been more than a little obsessed with The Little Yellow Duck Project. I’ve been crocheting little ducks like crazy and my son, husband, and I have now placed 34 ducks in NYC, Long Island, and around Westchester County.

It’s ridiculously fun. Sneaking around. Trying to leave a duck in a super crowded place without being noticed. Eagerly checking The Little Yellow Duck Project’s world map to see if any new ducks have been reported. The rush when we’ve had another duck on the map. The amazement that our ducks were the first ones reported in NY state. The shouts of joy when we realized that the 500th duck reported was one we had left!

Ducks about to hit the streets of NY

Ducks about to hit the streets of NY

My husband’s continued attempts have resulted in 0 of 14 ducks on the map. However, after leaving ducks on his coworker’s desks and discussing the project with them, he learned that one of them is about to donate a kidney in a few days. He didn’t feel it was right to push her to register it. She was doing more than her share for the cause.

So what is the cause? The Little Yellow Duck Project has two goals: to brighten up someone’s day by finding a little duck and to increase awareness and registration for organ, blood, and bone marrow donation. How is that personal? My friend Tania who I mentioned in my last post died earlier this year at the age of 41 while waiting for a heart transplant.

Little Yellow Duck with Tag

Little Yellow Duck with Tag

So what’s the deal with these ducks? There are a few official free patterns, but you can make any duck you like however you want to make it and stick a tag on it letting people know to take it home and that it’s part of The Little Yellow Duck Project with the website listed. I’ve used both the Just Ducky Lovey pattern and Filbert. Both are free patterns and work up in about an hour. I’ve found that Just Ducky Lovey is better for sticking in places, like slots of a bench if it’s windy. Filbert stands up and works great for flat places like picnic tables or the top of washing machines. The tags are available in multiple languages on the website and even include a place for you to name each duck.

While I’ve crocheted my ducks, there are also patterns for knitted and sewn ducks. People have also made ducks out of pom poms and have made bags with appliqued ducks on them.

This is an international initiative so no matter where you are, no matter what your medium, give it a shot. You just might make it on the map (and help to save a life in the process).

Ducks for The Little Yellow Duck Project

First Group of Ducks for The Little Yellow Duck Project

Little Yellow Duck

Filbert! as a Little Yellow Duck

Mallard variations of Just Ducky Lovey

Mallard variations of Just Ducky Lovey

 

 

 

Free Pattern: Rainbow Collection: Ombre Pillow Set

Ombre Pillow SetWhile searching for yarn for No More Snow! in the closet, I came across the pillow inserts I had intended to become the Rainbow Collection’s ombre pillow set over 2 years ago. I was on vacation so I got all “I’m going to make everything I’ve been meaning to make for like 3 years.” I didn’t get quite that far, but I did whip up these pillows pretty quickly.

The Ombre Pillow Set includes 14″ and 16″ pillows made in the round using all single crochet and the painted crochet technique from Somewhere Over the Rainbow. You basically single crochet in the round with three strands together throughout the pattern, swapping out one strand at a time to get the ombre effect, and do 3 sc in the corners.

So here’s the next pattern in my Rainbow Collection Series, the Ombre Pillow Set.

Materials:

7 skeins of Red Heart Super Saver Solids (worsted weight yarn in 364 yd skeins). 1 skein in each of the following colors: Hot Red (Red), Pumpkin (Orange), Bright Yellow (Yellow), Paddy Green (Green), Blue (Blue), Royal (Dark Blue), Amethyst (Purple). *See Notes below as you may find it easier to work from 2 skeins of each color.
16 inch square pillow insert (this is for the 14 inch pillow)
18 inch square pillow insert (this is for the 18 inch pillow)
Tapestry Needle
N/10mm Crochet Hook
2 removable stitch markers

Abbreviations (US terms used):

SC: Single Crochet

SC3TOG: Single Crochet 3 stitches together

Notes:

You will need a pillow insert 2 inches larger than the finished pillow size.

You will be crocheting in the round from corner to corner and will not turn. I do recommend marking the corners with stitch markers and moving them up along with your work.

Hold 3 strands of yarn together throughout the pattern. The painted crochet technique creates an ombre effect by changing the color of one of the three strands at a time. You will be dropping one strand and picking up a new color strand when indicated.

Before you start, make 1 ball of each color around 90 yards long. When you need two strands of a color, pick up from both ends of the skein. When you need the third strand of the same color, add the ball you just made. *You may just want to buy 2 skeins of each color instead to avoid making the balls of each color. It’s easier.

The first pillow will be 3 colors and 40 rounds total:
3 strands of red for 11.5 rounds
2 strands of red, 1 strand of orange for 2 rounds
1 strand of red, 2 strands of orange for 2 rounds
3 strands of orange for 8 rounds
2 strands of orange, 1 strand of yellow for 2 rounds
1 strand of orange, 2 strands of yellow for 2 rounds
3 strands of yellow for 12.5 rounds

The second pillow will be 4 colors and 44 rounds total:
3 strands of green for 9.5 rounds
2 strands of green, 1 strand of blue for 2 rounds
1 strand of green, 2 strands of blue for 2 rounds
3 strands of blue for 6 rounds
2 strands of blue, 1 strand of dark blue for 2 rounds
1 strand of blue, 2 strands of dark blue for 2 rounds
3 strands of dark blue for 6 rounds
2 strands of dark blue, 1 strand of purple for 2 rounds
1 strand of dark blue, 2 strands of purple for 2 rounds
3 strands of purple for 10.5 rounds

Pattern:

Red Orange Yellow Ombre PillowFirst Pillow (3 colors, 16″ pillow insert):

Round 1:  Starting with 3 strands of Red Yarn, 6SC in a magic ring [6]

Round 2: (1 SC, 3 SC in the next SC – mark center SC with a stitch marker – move these up when you work each row, 1 SC) 2x (10)

Round 3: (2 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 2 SC) 2x (14)

Round 4: (3 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 3 SC) 2x (18)

Round 5: (4 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 4 SC) 2x (22)

Round 6: (5 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 5 SC) 2x (26)

Round 7: (6 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 6 SC) 2x (30)

Round 8: (7 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 7 SC) 2x (34)

Round 9: (8 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 8 SC) 2x (38)

Round 10: (9 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 9 SC) 2x (42)

Round 11: (10 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 10 SC) 2x (46)

Round 12: 11 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 22 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up one strand of orange, you will now be working with 2 strands red and 1 strand orange), 11 SC (50)

Round 13: (12 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 12 SC) 2x (54)

Round 14: 13 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 26 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up another strand of orange, you will now be working with 1 strand red and 2 strands orange), 13 SC (58)

Round 15: (14 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 14 SC) 2x (62)

Round 16: 15 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 30 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of red and pick up another strand of orange, you will now be working with 3 strands orange), 15 SC (66)

Round 17: (16 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 16 SC) 2x (70)

Round 18: (17 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 17 SC) 2x (74)

Round 19: (18 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC) 2x (78)

Round 20: (19 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 19 SC) 2x (82)

Round 21: SC in each stitch around (82)

Round 22: (19 SC, SC3TOG, 19 SC) 2x (78)

Round 23: (18 SC, SC3TOG, 18 SC) 2x (74)

Round 24: 17 SC, SC3TOG, 34 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up a strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with two strands orange and one strand yellow), 17 SC (70)

Round 25: (16 SC, SC3TOG, 16 SC) 2x (66)

Round 26: 15 SC, SC3TOG, 30 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up another strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with one strand orange and two strands yellow), 15 SC (62)

Round 27: (14 SC, SC3TOG, 14 SC) 2x (58)

Round 28: 13 SC, SC3TOG, 26 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of orange and pick up another strand of yellow then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with three strands yellow), 13 SC (54)

Ombre Pillow Weave In EndsRound 29: (12 SC, SC3TOG, 12 SC) 2x (48)

Round 30: (11 SC, SC3TOG, 11 SC) 2x (44)

Turn inside out and weave in the ends, turn right side out and continue.

Round 31: (10 SC, SC3TOG, 10 SC) 2x (40)

Round 32: (9 SC, SC3TOG, 9 SC) 2x (36)

Round 33: (8 SC, SC3TOG, 8 SC) 2x (32)

Round 34: (7 SC, SC3TOG, 7 SC) 2x (30)

Ombre Pillow with InsertPut the pillow insert in. You will be crocheting around the pillow insert for the rest of the pillow.

Round 35: (6 SC, SC3TOG, 6 SC) 2x (26)

Round 36: (5 SC, SC3TOG, 5 SC) 2x (22)

Round 37: (4 SC, SC3TOG, 4 SC) 2x (18)

Round 38: (3 SC, SC3TOG, 3 SC) 2x (14)

Round 39: (2 SC, SC3TOG, 2 SC) 2x (10)

Round 40: (1 SC, SC3TOG, 1 SC) 2x (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail, thread tail through the last six stitches and pull tight. Stitch a few times to close up the corner and weave in the ends.

Jewel Tone Ombre PillowSecond Pillow (4 colors, 18″ pillow insert):

Round 1:  Starting with 3 strands of Green Yarn, 6SC in a magic ring [6]

Round 2: (1 SC, 3 SC in the next SC – mark center SC with a stitch marker – move these up when you work each row, 1 SC) 2x (10)

Round 3: (2 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 2 SC) 2x (14)

Round 4: (3 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 3 SC) 2x (18)

Round 5: (4 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 4 SC) 2x (22)

Round 6: (5 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 5 SC) 2x (26)

Round 7: (6 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 6 SC) 2x (30)

Round 8: (7 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 7 SC) 2x (34)

Round 9: (8 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 8 SC) 2x (38)

Round 10: 9 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC, 3SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up one strand of blue, you will now be working with 2 strands green and 1 strand blue), 9 SC (42)

Round 11: (10 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 10 SC) 2x (46)

Round 12: 11 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 22 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up one strand of blue, you will now be working with 2 strands blue and 1 strand green), 11 SC (50)

Round 13: (12 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 12 SC) 2x (54)

Round 14: 13 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 26 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of green and pick up another strand of blue, you will now be working with 3 strands blue), 13 SC (58)

Round 15: (14 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 14 SC) 2x (62)

Round 16: (15 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 15 SC) 2x (66)

Round 17: (16 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 16 SC) 2x (70)

Round 18: (17 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 17 SC) 2x (74)

Round 19: (18 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 18 SC) 2x (78)

Round 20: 19 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 38 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of blue and pick up one strand of dark blue, you will now be working with 2 strands blue and 1 strand dark blue), 19 SC(82)

Round 21: (20 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 20 SC) 2x (86)

Round 22: 21 SC, 3 SC in the next SC, 42 SC, 3 SC in the next SC (after the first stitch, drop one strand of blue and pick up one strand of dark blue, you will now be working with 2 strands dark blue and 1 strand blue), 21 SC (90)

Round 23: SC in each stitch around (90)

Round 24: 21 SC, SC3TOG, 42 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of blue and pick up a strand of dark blue then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 3 strands dark blue), 21 SC(86)

Round 25: (20 SC, SC3TOG, 20 SC) 2x (82)

Round 26: (19 SC, SC3TOG, 19 SC) 2x (78)

Round 27: (18 SC, SC3TOG, 18 SC) 2x (74)

Round 28: (17 SC, SC3TOG, 17 SC) 2x (70)

Round 29: (16 SC, SC3TOG, 16 SC) 2x (66)

Round 30:  15 SC, SC3TOG, 30 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 2 strands dark blue and 1 strand purple), 15 SC (62)

Round 31: (14 SC, SC3TOG, 14 SC) 2x (58)

Round 32: 13 SC, SC3TOG, 26 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 2 strands purple and 1 strand dark blue), 13 SC(54)

Round 33: (12 SC, SC3TOG, 12 SC) 2x (48)

Round 34: 11 SC, SC3TOG, 22 SC, SC3TOG (to finish the stitch, at the pull through all loops on hook, drop one strand of dark blue and pick up a strand of purple then pull through all loops on hook, you will now be working with 3 strands purple), 11 SC (44)

Round 35: (10 SC, SC3TOG, 10 SC) 2x (40)

Round 36: (9 SC, SC3TOG, 9 SC) 2x (36)

Round 37: (8 SC, SC3TOG, 8 SC) 2x (32)

Turn inside out and weave in the ends, turn right side out. Put the pillow insert in. You will be crocheting around the pillow insert for the rest of the pillow.

Round 38: (7 SC, SC3TOG, 7 SC) 2x (30)

Round 39: (6 SC, SC3TOG, 6 SC) 2x (26)

Round 40: (5 SC, SC3TOG, 5 SC) 2x (22)

Round 41: (4 SC, SC3TOG, 4 SC) 2x (18)

Round 42: (3 SC, SC3TOG, 3 SC) 2x (14)

Round 43: (2 SC, SC3TOG, 2 SC) 2x (10)

Round 44: (1 SC, SC3TOG, 1 SC) 2x (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail, thread tail through the last six stitches and pull tight. Stitch a few times to close up the corner and weave in the ends.

I was very sad to hear of the passing of an old friend from high school earlier this week. Tania this pattern is dedicated to you. I hope you have finally found peace on the other side of the rainbow.

Tania was a kind and sad creative soul. Her documentary New York City Subculture 1996 about the NYC mid-90’s punk scene lives on on YouTube and her book of poems, Elusive, is available for Kindle.

Free Pattern: Snow No? a cowl

Snow no a cowlBefore I begin, let me say Happy NatCroMo! That’s right, it’s National Crochet Month, so get that hook out and join the party. Now, onto the cowl…

Snow No flat viewMonday the snow did me wrong. After a winter of hating the snow and fighting against it, I finally embraced it. Over a foot was on the way. School and work were sure to be closed. I looked forward to it. And then… it didn’t show up.

In anticipation, I made a matching cowl to No More Snow! a hat. While the snow was a no show, single digits did make a comeback and this cowl did get play this week. Similar to Spareribs, but a little smaller with ribbed edging that lets it be pulled over your nose or mouth, Snow No? will keep you super toasty against the brutal winds and ridiculous temperatures.

Here’s the pattern for Snow No! a cowl:

Materials:

300 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.5 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
H crochet hook (5.0 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL
1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL
2 – YO, pull up a loop
3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC:
Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch
2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch
3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.
4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
SC: Single Crochet
SS: Slip Stitch

Snow no cowlPattern:

Body of Cowl (with J hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 99 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (100)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3 one more time

Round 25: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Do not finish off. The body of the cowl is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of Cowl (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your H hook, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Now you’ll work the other side of the ribbing.

Row 1: Still using your H hook, with the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (7)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: Spareribs – A Cowl

Spareribs - A Cowl

While I’m a big fan of the infinity scarf worn doubled, I love the feel of this shorter, wider shape. It’s a fun, warm hug of yarn around your neck!

Spareribs is the perfect cowl to take on this nasty winter. It matches Worm on a Hook and No More Snow! a hat, Spareribs is inspired by several similar looking knit patterns: Jane Richmond’s Welted Cowl, Churchmouse Yarns and Teas’ Welted Cowl & Infinity Loop, and of course Wurm done as a cowl. If you’re neck is in need of a warm yarn hug, give it a shot.

Spareribs and No More Snow

Here’s the pattern for Spareribs – A Cowl:

Materials:

375 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.7 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle


Abbreviations:

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL
1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL
2 – YO, pull up a loop
3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain

FHDC: Foundation Half Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch
2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch
3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.
4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

SS: Slip Stitch

Pattern:

Spareribs CowlThe body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 105 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (106)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 5-28: Repeat Rounds 2-4 eight more times

Round 29-30: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 31: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 32: Turn, you are now working on the wrong side, SS around to tighten up the last row, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

FO and weave in the ends. Steam block to relax the yarn. This cowl done in Paton’s Classic Wool was CRAZY stiff before blocking. Paton’s Classic Wool also really softens up when you wet block it, so if steaming is still too stiff for you, wet block it.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: No More Snow! a hat

No More Snow! a hat

No More Snow! a hat

It cannot possibly be snowing again. But it is.

To vent my frustration I made another hat. A cross between Big Worm and Worm on a Hook, No More Snow! is a little larger than Worm on a Hook without the taper rows and with a smaller slip stitch ribbed edge than Big Worm. No More Snow! probably ended up to be the closest of the three hat patterns to Wurm.

Here’s the pattern for No More Snow! (and I mean it):

No More Snow Crocheted HatMaterials:

275 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.25 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted Weight )
H crochet hook (5.0 mm)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL
1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL
2 – YO, pull up a loop
3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC:
Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch
2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch
3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.
4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
HDC2TOG in BBL: Half Double Crochet 2 Together in Back Back Loop
SS: Slip Stitch

Closeup of No More Snow! a hatBack of No More Snow HatPattern:

Pattern is written for an adult size hat. Notes are included to adjust for child size hat.

Body of Hat (with J hook):

The body of the hat is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

For a Child size hat, start with a foundation row of 78 stitches.

To make the hat smaller or larger than the pattern, you can just add more or less stitches to the foundation row and do more or less repeats of rounds 2-4.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 83 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (84)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (84)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (84)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (84)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 25: Ch 1, HDC2TOG in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (42)

FO leaving long tail. Weave the tail in and out of each stitch of the last round and pull tight to close. Stitch a few stitches to secure and close up opening.

The body of the hat is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of hat (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

For a Child size hat, Ch 6 instead of 8.

Row 1: With the wrong side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 8, turn. (8)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (8)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (8)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (8)

Row 5: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (8)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with either Row 4 or 6.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two wrong sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Big Worm in Action

Big Worm - A Hooked Hat

Side View of Big Worm

In case you missed it, Big Worm is a free crochet hat pattern I just posted a few days ago.

Please note the pattern for Big Worm as written is for an oversized adult size hat. My son was the only available model, but this is my hat. I’ve been wearing it all weekend and I love it! For a smaller circumference, just start with a foundation row with less stitches. For a less slouchy hat, repeat rounds 2-3 less times.

Free Pattern: Big Worm – A Hooked Hat

Big Worm - A Hooked Hat

Big Worm – A Hooked Hat

Big Worm is a big slouchy version of Worm on a Hook with a rolled up edging, and yes Friday is one of my favorite movies. Big Worm also has a 2 row rib instead of the 3 row rib in Worm on a Hook and more contrast between rows. I apologize in advance for using Slip Stitches for the ribbed edging. After making Doris Chan’s Sash-A belt for my Shannon cardigan a few years ago, I swore of Slip Stitches forever. A few days ago I started Shirley MacDonald’s Dappled Mitts and kept hating the technique, but loved the results. I tried several different types of ribbing for the edging of this hat and hands down the slip stitches worked the best. So… sorry.

Here’s the pattern for Big Worm:

Big Worm - A Hooked Hat

Materials:

330 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used around 1.75 skeins of Vickie Howell Sheep(ish) )
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle
Optional: Mechanical pencil with no lead or something else to pick up stitches, can use Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BLO: Work in the Back Loop Only.
BBL:
Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

Working in the BBL


Ch: Chain
DC: Double Crochet
DC2TOG in BBL:
Double Crochet 2 Together in Back Back Loops
FHDC:
Foundation Half Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
RHDC:
Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet (photo tutorial available), but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
RHDC2TOG: Raised Half Double Crochet 2 Together (special decrease stitch). YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop,YO, pull through all loops on hook.
SS: Slip Stitch

Pattern:

Body of Hat:

The body of the hat is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round. First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 84 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (85)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (85)

Round 3: Ch 1, DC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (85)

Round 4-19: Repeat Rounds 2-3 eight more times

Round 20: Repeat Round 2

Round 21: Ch 1, DC2Tog in BBL around to last stitch, DC in BBL for last stitch.

FO leaving long tail. Weave the tail in and out of each stitch of the last round and pull tight to close. Stitch a few stitches to secure and close up opening.

The body of the hat is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of hat:

You will be turning at the end of each row. Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t. Keep your tension VERY loose. You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. It will make life MUCH easier. I used the tip of a mechanical pencil with no lead. You can use the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: With the right side facing you, join yarn in foundation row with a SS, Ch 15, turn. (15)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (15)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (15)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (15)

Row 5: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (15)

Row 6: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (15)

Row 7: Skip 2 SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (15)

Row 8: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row, turn. (15)

Repeat Rows 3-8 until you meet up with the beginning, ending with a SS into the foundation row.

For the final row that connects the two sides, hold the two right sides together, turn. SS through both sides of work, BLO on side facing you, FLO on other side, FO.

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Free Pattern: Worm on a Hook – A Hat

Worm on a Hook - The Hat

Worm on a Hook – The Hat

It’s been a rough winter. A few weeks ago when the single digit weather started kicking in here in the NY area, I started having flashbacks to my college days in Chicago and as I did back then, I began to pile on the layers.

In the search for all the winter gear I could get my hands on, one day I borrowed my husband’s hat. My head had the same revelation my neck had when I started making and wearing scarves a few years ago. It was so warm. I had to have me one of these hats!

Looking around at hat patterns, I really liked the super popular knit hat pattern Wurm and thought Sugared Ribs could totally be turned into a Wurm inspired hat.

So here’s my Wurm inspired crocheted hat pattern for Worm on a Hook:

Materials:

190 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used just under 1 skein of Plymouth Yarn Encore Worsted Solids & Heathers)
J crochet hook (6.0 mm)
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook


Ch: Chain
FHDC:
Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf(if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished



RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.
RSC2TOG: Raised Single Crochet 2 Together (special decrease stitch). Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop,YO, pull through both loops on hook.
RHDC2TOG: Raised Half Double Crochet 2 Together (special decrease stitch). YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop,YO, pull through all loops on hook.
HDC2TOG in BBL: Half Double Crochet 2 Together in Back Back Loop

Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round, just keep going at the end of each row.

Pattern:

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 79 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, you do not need to ss to connect to top part of stitch, just continue on with the next row. (80)

Round 2: RSC in each stitch around (80)

Round 3: RHDC in each stitch around (80)

Round 4: HDC in BBL of each stitch around (80)

Round 5-21: Repeat Rows 2-4 five more times

Round 22-23: Repeat Rows 2-3

Round 24: (8 HDC in BBL stitches, HDC2TOG in BBL) 8x (72)
**Confessional side note: I did not have 80 stitches by the time I got to this round. I had lost a few along the way. Count your stitches before you start round 24. If you do not have 80, do HDC2TOG at evenly spaced intervals to get to 72 stitches by the end of the round.

Round 25: (10 RSC, RSC2TOG) 6x (66)

Round 26: (9 RHDC, RHDC2TOG) 6x (60)

Round 27: (8 HDC in BBL, HDC2TOG in BBL) 6x (54)

Round 28: (7 RSC, RSC2TOG) 6x (48)

Round 29: (6 RHDC, RHDC2TOG) 6x (42)

Round 30: (5 HDC in BBL, HDC2TOG in BBL) 6x (36)

Round 31: (4 RSC, RSC2TOG) 6x (30)

Round 32: (3 RHDC, RHDC2TOG) 6x (24)

Round 33: (2 HDC in BBL, HDC2TOG in BBL) 6x, connect with a SS (18)

FO leaving a long tail

Weave the end through the last row of stitches and pull tight

Stitch together a few times and make sure secure

Weave in ends.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Some more pictures of Worm on a Hook:

Worm on a Hook - The Hat

Worm on a Hook Flat

Worm on a Hook - The Hat Closeup

Worm on a Hook – The Hat Closeup

Worm on a Hook - The Hat Top

Worm on a Hook – The Hat Top

Worm on a Hook - The Hat Front View

Worm on a Hook Front View

Worm on a Hook - The Hat Side View

Worm on a Hook Hat Side View

Somewhere over the Rainbow Blanket in Action

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Image

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